Author Topic: Making a Collar By Hand  (Read 1680 times)

Henry Hall

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Making a Collar By Hand
« on: May 26, 2016, 01:54:57 AM »
From 'The Yorkshire Tailor'...


Schneiderfrei

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Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Reply #1 on: May 26, 2016, 04:55:30 PM »
Thanks Henry, that's great.

Claire Shaeffer

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Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2016, 09:32:54 AM »
This is an excellent video.
He does several things "automatically" without telling you.
There are no knots; he takes a backstitch to begin. Later, he trimmed away the ends. I use knots, but I like this no knot approach.
He stamped the melton to transfer the chalk mark from one half to the other. You must use clay chalk to do this.
He explained why he was using silk on the roll line. This was probably silamide since I don't think skein silk is available anymore. (Actually B. Black has some colors but not black.)
I like trimming the melton here.
I am old-school and want a seam at center back on the canvas.
Claire

Henry Hall

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Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2016, 10:01:13 AM »
Skeins of silk are still available. Kenton sells them and so does RJ Weldon.

Schneiderfrei

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Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2016, 09:32:24 PM »
Hi Claire,  the no knot thing is good.  I learned sewing from my mother, which of course was dress making, so knots were the go. 

When I learned that  they were unnecessary I found it very liberating.  There is no stoping to tie knots, its all the same rhythm and motion.

G

Claire Shaeffer

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Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2016, 12:59:51 AM »
Harry, thanks for the info. The silk on skeins is a Gutermann product; it isn't available in the US.

Back to the knots. I think the real value with no knots is the time element, but you have to learn to begin without pulling the end through.
Another time saver is to start each row of basting with a new thread and just leave the uncut ends to trim later. This eliminates retreading in the middle of a line. There is wasted thread, but thread is cheaper than time.

Greger

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Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Reply #6 on: August 31, 2016, 07:06:30 AM »
Some git pretty good at figuring out what lengths threads they need and have very little waste. Haven't sewn for awhile, but in one glance I knew the length thread needed, visual length, not measured by yard stick, divide the length up to usable lengths, cut, thread the needles, now, sit and sew. Thread may not be as expensive as it was. But, why squander it and lose good skills. You are making money by the second, or, losing it. Tailors who were careless with the thread given for the job, and ran out, had to pay out of their own pocket to finish. Different companies different ways of handling business. So many tailors were paid by the stitches. Faster tailors walked off with more money. When sewing machines where allowed it really didn't help the slow hand sewers.

spookietoo

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Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Reply #7 on: September 06, 2016, 01:14:19 PM »
Thank you, Henry. This is an excellent video. Please let us know if there are more.

I've not used knots since I was a kid. Good to know all of my habits aren't bad ones.