Hi All, just finished this pair of jeans I created using the Chaudhry western jeans draft from T&C. I have used some very soft Japanese denim, the loveliest denim material I have ever held in my hands; but, boy does it fray! I've had 3 orders for bespoke jeans from friends.
I found the draft to be okay though I had to change the silhouette a bit to fit my flat seat. One thing I should have done is to add a small dart in the yoke to offer a small amount of shape in that area, or so female friend of mine told me on Saturday night. I also didn't allow for felled seams on the inseam, crotch, seat and yoke. I added a quarter inch at CF to allow for my slight corpulence. Also I drafted a slight bow to the leg bottoms so they fit over boots well, though have removed this on the final pattern opting to add to the cloth when required. My final modification to the draft was to make the Ostinelli alteration to accommodate my protruding hips and calfs.
Construction was carried out in the same way I would put a pair of wool trousers together, my only issue was "what the heck am I going to put on the back pocket". The pocket frog I feel is a little to large so I have now changed that for the final oaktag pattern, as you can see in the pattern layover below. Starting point was to see if I could do proper ironwork on this kind of cloth, I reasoned that it was natural fibre so should behave in a comparable way. The ironwork turned out to be a breeze better than some of the wool I have used, I managed to impart a great shaping to the panels. I used a combination of my lockstitch machine and hand sewing, taking me no less or longer time than normal.
C and Cs gladly received.
I'm going to post this to the other forum too.