In another thread peterle tells us the following about the center back neckpoint of a jacket:
The first and most important step in fitting a garment is to position the backseam/ neckhole crosspoint exactly on the 7th vertebra, the protruding point. Everything starts here measuering and fitting.
The CB neckpoint is the only point on a body, that can be identified precisely. It is the protruding 7th vertebra. It is the only reliable reference point. Here we start measuring, here we start drawing, here we start fitting. All the rest of the jacket, each point of the pattern has to be put in the right position relatively to this point.
For fitting this means the only thing we know is, this point of the garment has to sit on exactly this point of the body. Thatīs why we pin it there. Everything else is unsure and has to be adapted when not fitting.
So the intersection of the CB and collar seam of a coat is not to be touched in fitting. Peterle seems
to be saying it is not to be altered under any circumstances. Change the whole rest of the coat if necessary, but not the back neck.
Yet many older alteration books do
show changes to this area. For example, the alterations chapter of the 1923 MTOC shows the following for "Coat Too High in the Neck":
(sorry for the scan quality, and yes I see the front has to be changed too)
Now, I'm sure peterle has forgotten more than I ever knew about fitting, as has recently been demonstrated
But I just can't reconcile these two concepts. If the point mentioned can never be changed, how can this alteration happen? How can you cut away a point which cannot be changed?
And if the alteration is OK, then maybe the first thing in fitting in such cases is to make corrections to the back
, so the new
CB collar seam lies in its proper place?
Or is this old book out of date?
What am I missing here?