I thought I might be able to develop a personal jacket pattern by fitting a toile. (Hint to new readers: Save yourself time by jumping ahead to this conclusion):
A tip for this and future projects: It is nearly impossible to fit one self.
But this is still the "Wild Enthusiasm" stage. So we continue:
Starting point was the 1970 T&C "Modern Suit Jacket" using dimensions for my RTW size of 42R. Author's comment: No personal measurements? What could possibly go wrong?
After trying on the first mockup (not shown) I made a few changes:
- Reduced back width at shoulder 1/2"
- Changed major vertical balance 1/2" (upper back 1/4" longer, shoulder piece in front 1/4" shorter)
- "Slightly Corpulent" adjustment from the 1923 MTOC applied to the lower front, reflecting the fact that my waist measure is 40 and not 38. Basically, I straightened the front below the upper button, and spread the pocket dart open a bit more to avoid adding too much length at the bottom edge.
The second mockup is shown below. First four pictures are unbuttoned, next four buttoned. Edges have not been pressed back so the lapels are 3/8" wider than finished, and the bottom is 1-1/4" longer.
To my untrained eye it seems to hang well, but I wonder if I should reduce the skirt?
I would like to know if more experienced eyes see any big issues before I attach the sleeves.