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Introduction from New Members / Re: Please introduce yourself here.
« Last post by crackedoats on Today at 04:20:48 PM »
Hello everyone! I am a young professional tailor/draper freelancing in new york, working in film, television, theatre and dance. I got a good education grounding from some really solid tailoring courses in graduate school, and have been honing/building on those skills since. I also tailor my own clothing when I am able , which is where I get to experiment with different drafts and construction techniques.

I specialize in, and have a particular fondness/affinity for bespoke menswear. I came to this forum through searching for more tailor's books -- I have some of the basics Cabrera, Doyle, Mitchell System, Poulin, Waugh.. but know that there is so much more out there to learn and see.. Since tailoring approaches can be so subjective!

I look forward to sharing with everyone!

One method I learned for sewing a welt pocket seam involved leaving long threads, checking that the two lines were the same length, and if necessary adding one stitch manually pulling out one.Then the two threads were threaded into a needle and the seam was hand-tacked.

No question, this is the neatest way to finish the ends of a line of stitching.  Of course it's also the most time-consuming...

The best things comesto those who wait.
Coatmaker's Reference / Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Last post by Greger on July 24, 2017, 12:17:06 PM »
If you find hair canvas that does the job you want what more can you ask for? Good is good.
Coatmaker's Reference / Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on July 23, 2017, 12:09:39 PM »
Well Schneiderhandwerk was from the 1950's.  Hair canvas probably looked pretty good.
Coatmaker's Reference / Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Last post by Greger on July 23, 2017, 04:15:51 AM »
The center seam can have a shaped cut. Another reason is one side may need to be longer than the other across the back. Otherwise, one piece is alright.

It seems horse hair maybe to bulky. If the hairs poke out, and some, slide out, then the purpose is defeated. Is that the best/correct springingness for a collar? Whatever materials, that are used, it does its job for several decades.
Coatmaker's Reference / Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on July 22, 2017, 12:37:02 PM »
Here is what the Schneiderhandwerk says about the undercollar:

"The collar also gets an inlay.  We have used hair canvas for the material.  It [hair] appears softer and more pliable than the hard collar lining, that seemed so natural to use not long ago.  The experts are, however, not yet in complete agreement.  However, in either case, it is important that the interlining material on the [Crochetnaht] — i.e. the seam where the collar and lapel [Fasson] join — is straight grained, and in fact, must be warp-yarn [kettfadengerade] straight."

Sorry if there are any glaring errors.  It is only talking about the felt and inlay.  I haven't finished beyond this. :)

Coatmaker's Reference / Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Last post by TTailor on July 21, 2017, 09:00:32 PM »
If you always leave extra canvas to allow for the difference that the bias creates in an unseamed collar, you can remark the length and shape that occurs.
I don't really like the bulk either, but the collar comes out more evenly if there is a seam.
Coatmaker's Reference / Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Last post by peterle on July 21, 2017, 07:38:17 PM »
I like the two piece collar canvas, because I think the warp and weft yarn of the canvas are always a bit different. So the ends of the collar will drape completely the same only when they´r cut mirrorwise with a seam in the CB. But maybe that´s just too much thoughts on a minor detail.
Coatmaker's Reference / Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Last post by spookietoo on July 21, 2017, 05:11:51 PM »
I just happened across this video earlier today and noticed the one piece canvas (missed it the first time). Claire mentioned liking the two piece canvas, but I'm not envisioning a stability issue here. I admit, the bit of me that is OCD does like the idea of a directional bias cut, however the bulk/extra stiffness on the center back collar has always bugged me. I can't think of a reason not to use one piece, as both sides are still bias cut.

Any other thoughts?
Costumers Forum / Re: Military Jackets
« Last post by jruley on July 20, 2017, 11:17:05 PM »

 I handsewed it through the centre of the braid, with little spaced backstitches, but Id love to know the correct way to attach the thicker braid.

This is the method I've used for repro Confederate officer's coats with Austrian knots (aka "chicken guts") on the cuffs.  To make the pattern easier to follow, I lay it out in chalk, then machine stitch along the chalk line with contrasting thread.  The soutache is laid on top of the stitching and attached with hand backstitching. 

Original coats show considerable variation both in the material used for the knots, and the method used for attaching same.

I'd like to insert an image, but can't find the link to do so.  Photobucket is no longer an option due to fees.
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