Recent Posts

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Introduction from New Members / Re: Please introduce yourself here.
« Last post by hutch-- on December 11, 2018, 04:32:48 AM »
You will do fine, there is no reason why a dedicated home sewer cannot produce professional quality garments, as long as you have the basic machines and learn how to use them, the rest is practice.
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General Discussion / Re: Interview with Savile Row cutter Malcolm Plews
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on December 09, 2018, 01:12:09 PM »
I agree with Terri, though I was also focused on his poor sleeves.  Even given an uncomfortable sitting position.
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General Discussion / Re: Interview with Savile Row cutter Malcolm Plews
« Last post by Greger on December 09, 2018, 12:16:15 PM »
Thought his sleeves were terrible for bespoke. T'was looking at his coat while he was talking.
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General Discussion / Re: Interview with Savile Row cutter Malcolm Plews
« Last post by TTailor on December 09, 2018, 03:21:17 AM »
I thought he was an interesting fellow talking about the craft he obviously is immersed in and has thought a lot about over the years. He is totally spot on about everything.
Too bad the interviewer was so meh. Almost better to just edit out the interviewer responses since he only asked a couple of questions.
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Introduction from New Members / Re: Please introduce yourself here.
« Last post by Guilda on December 09, 2018, 02:24:34 AM »
Hi I'm Guilda,

I have had a passion for the art of sewing since childhood, and with the aid of a great many good books I finally entered the craft as an adult. It didn't take long to realize that I longed for the crisp details that elevate the home sewer toward the road of tailoring from home.  Besides, I love the Audrey Hepburn look!

Guilda
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General Discussion / Re: Interview with Savile Row cutter Malcolm Plews
« Last post by Greger on December 08, 2018, 02:04:20 PM »
Think there are a lot of variables to consider. Some mass-produced sewn in sleeves are beautiful. How the coat fits in movements is/can be a game changer. Better pattern systems can be beneficial. But like everything else, limited. It depends on what you/customer wants to do with the garment, which is really about art. A good question to ask for making garments is "what is art"? Designers are artist. That is what they are trying to produce. Cloth is like paints. What are you going to do with them on the canvas? Paint the same picture over and over? Someone says that's the way to do it? Fitting says the pattern system is wrong for 95% of the customers. Shrinking and stretching effects how the seam works. A shaped cloth is different in movements on curved parts of the body than flat cloth, which is kinda forced. You really notice this with metal and hard plastic. A hand sewn seam (not to tight) has more diagonal flexability than most machines. To escape the apprenticeship he had to do something like 30 stitches per minute. A 30 inch trousers seam is only 4 minutes. Two inseams are done in 8 minutes. We're not talking about the drudgery here of hours. 30 stitches per minute is a slow tailor. Being payed by the inch is how it went for many tailors. Even the thread was cut exact lengths and put in the bundles the tailors received, so there is no waste. Business is about two things, satisfied customers and profit. Government says, "and taxes".  Factory is designed and shaped for machine work. Tailors skills are between terrible to beyond excellent. Why pay attention to terrible? That's not what I want to compare with. Always keep ones eye open for excellence. That means you'll only see few. These are the ones, that! Can they be machine sewn? And, still have that quality? Some top quality machine work probably can be equal. It's the image that matters sometimes.

Davide Taub some interesting work.

A rambled answer.
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General Discussion / Interview with Savile Row cutter Malcolm Plews
« Last post by Henry Hall on December 08, 2018, 11:45:51 AM »
An interesting discussion with Malcolm Plews, Savile Row cutter. Regarding what he says about handwork vs machine work, what is your own methodology? Plews talks about how the better accuracy of modern cutting has allowed shoulder seams, sleeves and other areas to be sewn by machine, with (I assume) no corresponding loss in quality.

If only the interviewer could stop saying 'yes' every two seconds...

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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Highland dress
« Last post by pfaff260 on December 06, 2018, 04:37:39 PM »
Highland dress from The modern tailor outfitter and clothier part 2



















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Sewing machines and equipment / Re: A new cutting table
« Last post by Henry Hall on December 06, 2018, 07:59:35 AM »
I had a plan against clutter. The table on wheels which slips under the bigger table now has two shelves: one just under the table top and one at the bottom of the legs. the top one houses the square, ruler, pencils etc and has room for unfinished drafts. The bottom one has two large plastic boxes with lids, holding work in progress and other larger items.

I need to maximise the use of the limited space I have.
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Sewing machines and equipment / Re: A new cutting table
« Last post by spookietoo on December 06, 2018, 04:10:36 AM »
Hutch - suddenly using risers on my dining table doesn't seem like much work afterall!
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