Author Topic: Fitting of trouser project  (Read 155 times)

Will_F

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Fitting of trouser project
« on: November 03, 2017, 02:54:52 PM »
Hello

5 months into new hobby as trouser maker. Started of with a Mansie draft and then moved on to these ones. I have been working on a pair of worsted&cashmere trousers and currently a bit puzzled by the result. Would be grateful if someone with a trained eye could give a few pointers on what might be done to improve the general fit.

I drafted the pattern with the instructions of "Fundamentals - Menswear" by Müller & Sohn (latest). I have added inlays as suggested in Hosteks book. Trousers made pretty much in accordance to process desctibed in Cabreras book + a half a dozen of other sources.  The pattern has 2 darts in the back. Sorry for bad image quality. I did some light iron work (the cloth seems to respond well to that) to shape the trousers but didn't want to go overboard on that.






Bigger resolution images can be found here: https://imgur.com/a/gvKfL

TTailor

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Re: Fitting of trouser project
« Reply #1 on: November 03, 2017, 11:13:54 PM »
Can you post pictures of your pattern as well?
I dont think you "need" two back darts as your seat is fairly flat. Did you make a pattern adjustment for a flat seat?
You have a hip forward stnce as well, your calves are in alignment with your seat.
It would be great to get rid of the pulling at the bottom of the fly and deal with what is going on with the drag lines between the side seam at the level of you hands and the back waist.

Seeing the pattern will help.

Will_F

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Re: Fitting of trouser project
« Reply #2 on: November 04, 2017, 03:36:41 AM »
Here's the pattern. I have not made any adjustments though on that level though. I added inlays when cutting and there is quite much extra ease in the back part seams. I think the vertical lines in the back is too much fabric at the back part side seams.  I did spend time to shape the center back seam.

I have button fly on this one so I have realigned the fly buttons a bit. The fly are might not been entirely aligned. That seems to make the front pulling better but there is fairly much pulling left. I try to get  a new image up on that but essentially the pulling is still there and not sure what is going on there. 




Will_F

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Re: Fitting of trouser project
« Reply #3 on: November 04, 2017, 03:57:02 AM »
And the inlays would be added as in the pictures below.

The picture is from Men's Customer Tailored Pants by Stanley Hostek.

Will_F

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Re: Fitting of trouser project
« Reply #4 on: November 04, 2017, 08:48:44 AM »
I found this old thread about fitting trousers. http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=403
Could the pulling in the front be cause of a oddly shaped back center seam? I had to use some of the inlays in the back and I think I might have disturbed the "run" of the seam.

posaune

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Re: Fitting of trouser project
« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2017, 05:16:02 PM »
  I think you have a Balance problem. The Front needs more length (and width ) because  of you forward hip. The rise could be a Little more so the back pants can move up and you can alter the CB  seam angle and the back trouser can go up.
Posaune

peterle

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Re: Fitting of trouser project
« Reply #6 on: November 04, 2017, 08:32:50 PM »
I also think you have a forward hip posture.

My first alteration would be to remove one of the back darts and ease in /make a dart with the same amount at the trouser fronts. This should give a bit more room for the fronts and probably reduces the whiskers and the gaping pockets reduces the "waves" in the upper back.

For the legs I recommend to move the knee notches of the back up for about 1,5cm. When sewing the legs let the (new)knee nothces meet and ease the back trousers in in calf hight, and ease the fronts in between the pocket ends and a point about 10 cm above the knee line. This will give some length where it´s needed, i.e. over the front tighs and the back calf.

A wool cashmere fabric will be easy to ease in and iron shape.

Will_F

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Re: Fitting of trouser project
« Reply #7 on: November 06, 2017, 05:13:09 AM »
Thank you all for the comments and recomendations. I'm traveling now but when back I'll  do some alterations. Quite exciting.