Author Topic: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.  (Read 2098 times)

posaune

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #30 on: November 02, 2017, 08:12:01 PM »
Wow Terri. Thank you very much. That looks very tidy and clean.
Wonderful.
I did the lining with a waist seam. My difficulties were mainly with the overlap of the step vent
lg
posaune

TTailor

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #31 on: November 13, 2017, 11:01:53 PM »
Another delay, to the original project. It is unusual to have a long deadline in my business, and the costume is not needed until March 2018.
An opportunity came up, so I am away working in Montreal for a month.
I believe the show will be set in 1660, so breeches and doublets look to be in my future.
Cheers!

TTailor

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #32 on: December 16, 2017, 10:41:21 AM »
Back home and underway on this project.
I dod a quilting sample to determine how much batting was required.
First I line basted my pattern lines.

Then I cut the batting. I cut darts out of the batting and laid the base over a large ham to preserve the shape while I diagonally basted the batting to the base. I cut away one layer of the batting aling the CB line and the shoulder.

I then modified my pattern and moved the vertical back waist dart to a horizontal position along one of my predetermined horizontal quilting lines.

I basted the silk to the batting along this dart line. Then I stitched it to the base.
I then basted the vertical quilting line in place and machined it.

After that I worked upwards from my original position pinning the fabric in place, flipping the piece over and sewing the quilting lines. Then I worked downwards towards the hem doing the same thing.
Always checking to make sure the top fabric was sitting correctly, and that the base fabric retained its shape and was smooth.

TTailor

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #33 on: December 19, 2017, 09:59:26 AM »
Just a few photo updates.
I made a hong kong finish on the shoulders and CB seam allowances.
I did a bias binding finish around the armholes and at the hem. Then I sewed the CB seam.
Next step will be to bind the back neckline. After that I move to the fronts which are now quilted and ready for front facings and bindings.





I dont have a stand big enough, so I have pinned it onto the 42.

Gramountoto

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #34 on: December 26, 2017, 09:26:21 PM »

Thank you Terry. It looks great to me!

What is the dark fabric you use here?
Would you always proceed the same way when making a quilted garment : basting the batting onto the lining and then only basting the outside fabric onto this?

TTailor

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #35 on: December 27, 2017, 01:26:05 AM »
The base fabric is a cotton twill that was sent to me for this project.
I much prefer to use duck which has a plain weave, because twill is often torqued.
I pre washed it, pressed and straightened it as much as possible, then fused a very lightweight fusible to one side (the side with batting).
I usually proceed like this, yes. If the quilting was for a flat piece like a fcaing on a dressing gown or smoking jacket, it could be prequilted then applied to the garment.


TTailor

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #36 on: January 06, 2018, 10:05:42 AM »




So here we are almost completed. I thought I would feel better if I put it on the stand that I had padded up. Just in case.
Still needs buttonholes and buttons sewn CF

The sides are finished with separate lacing pieces, so if it fits pretty well, minor dajustments can be made by loosening the lacing, or if larger adjustments are required, the strips with the eyelets can be unpicked and resewn so the garment is bigger or smaller. I think they coukd gain an additional four inches in chest size, and take it in about that much too without too much trouble.

The lacing strips are made by cutting a rectanglar pice of drill double the finished width and as long as you need to match the seam.Mark the  lengthwise foldline. Stitch a piece of silk to the foldline. Fold  the drill over onto itself lengthwise, leaving the silk alone. Create channels for the spiral steel boning in the drill. Cut and tip the boning, insert into the channels. Wrap the silk around the drill, finishing all three edges. Mark the eyelet placements and punch the holes then set the eyelets.

Then next thing I have to do is make some quilted sleeves and draft up a stretch bodice for him. The quilted sleeves are attached to the stretch bodice and he can wear the two pieces together or wear the sleeveless jerkin on its own.

BenJM

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #37 on: January 07, 2018, 10:20:31 AM »
I just wanted to say itís a lot of fascinating techniques and ideas you share and I appreciate you taking the time to share the photos and information TTailor!

Schneiderfrei

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #38 on: January 07, 2018, 11:03:51 AM »
BenJM is completely correct TTailor, thank you for your effort.

TTailor

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #39 on: January 08, 2018, 04:26:05 AM »
You are welcome!
Documenting is good for me too.