Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Discussion => General Discussion => Topic started by: posaune on August 13, 2017, 09:42:09 PM

Title: why is the page so silent?
Post by: posaune on August 13, 2017, 09:42:09 PM
I just wondered: Why is it, that the side is so slient? The range of tailoring is wide, the fabrics changing a lot and fast. The fashion moves even faster. But the classic style is still done and alive. We have the dirt cheap clothing - mostly made in sweat shops for next to nothing. In the same shops are garments made for next to nothing but with a posh label and sold to a posh price.  And we have the high end tailoring with moon prices. The in between is (I think) here of interest "a honest craftmanship". Meaning good fitting garments from nice fabric to a payable price for the customer and a good pay for the tailor.  And the first is maybe the goal of the hobby sewist too.
I am a member of the Cutter and Taylor and a member here.
After the beginning both sides were livelly and now there is on both sides much silence.
What is wrong with the concept?
And how can we put a little more discussion in?
I'm working on a draft for sleeves with enough cap height and bizeps width and not much ease. The armhole as small as possible for the person. Maybe that would be interesting?
lg
posaune
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: Schneiderfrei on August 13, 2017, 11:56:40 PM
Hello Heidi,

I would love to hear about the sleeve design.  I also notice that it is quiet.  For my part I have done a lot of sewing this year and translating. 

Not much looking around.

G
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: hutch-- on August 14, 2017, 12:17:24 AM
I keep an eye on the site multiple times daily but I am trapped doing a mountain of work in 64 bit Windows assembler that is about the size of Mount Everest in front of me so I cannot contribute much at the moment. My cutting table is covered in camera gear so I can't even have a quick play at the moment.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: Greger on August 14, 2017, 05:46:22 AM
Think it is northern summer for the slow down. Once the dog days of summer are gone it will probably pick up again.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: Schneiderfrei on August 14, 2017, 10:07:11 AM
I have noticed what greger says in the past.  Its true, but it does seem very quiet lately.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: spookietoo on August 14, 2017, 04:56:22 PM
I've actually been sewing. I've learned so much from this site and C&T over the past few years, I take a picture of myself and can figure out what my next step/attempt is as far as fitting - my current nemisis!

Posaune - I have one of those difficult "older" bodies (poor posture) you were commenting on a few weeks/months back. Forward head, forward shoulders, rounded back, FBA..... What a PITA!

I don't like to ask for help until I'm completely stumped....best way for me to learn.

You guys have posted so much excellent info.  Thank you.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: peterle on August 14, 2017, 08:04:51 PM
I just wondered: Why is it, that the side is so slient? The range of tailoring is wide, the fabrics changing a lot and fast. The fashion moves even faster. But the classic style is still done and alive. We have the dirt cheap clothing - mostly made in sweat shops for next to nothing. In the same shops are garments made for next to nothing but with a posh label and sold to a posh price.  And we have the high end tailoring with moon prices. The in between is (I think) here of interest "a honest craftmanship". Meaning good fitting garments from nice fabric to a payable price for the customer and a good pay for the tailor.  And the first is maybe the goal of the hobby sewist too.
I am a member of the Cutter and Taylor and a member here.
After the beginning both sides were livelly and now there is on both sides much silence.
What is wrong with the concept?
And how can we put a little more discussion in?
I'm working on a draft for sleeves with enough cap height and bizeps width and not much ease. The armhole as small as possible for the person. Maybe that would be interesting?
lg
posaune


First I think people donīt recognize well fitting clothing anymore and so they donīt care. They wonīt take their garments to the tailor to make them fit, also because they will only wear it for a few times and then toss it. And yes, I also wondered why anybody pays a lot of money for a (usually not fitting) trade mark garment instead of caring for a good fit.

But back to the interesting: Of course I would be interested in how you solve the problem with the biceps and a small armhole. Do you slash and pivot the pattern to get a wider biceps line? Do you also alter the back back to fit the increased trapecius muscles wich usually comes with a big  bodybuilder biceps?

Lg Peterle
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: TTailor on August 14, 2017, 09:05:34 PM
I myself have been absolutely swamped this year at work, and we have had horrible management issues and changes that are still happening and affecting our working life.
Personally two deaths in my family plus a terminal illness diagnosis for my brother in law.  On the up side a new baby for my stepson, and a wedding.
I think I am just tired!
Still interested but I just dont seem to have any extra energy.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: tom bennett on August 14, 2017, 10:12:12 PM
I'm here reading, though, I have been very busy making a couple of coats for friends/clients, I say that as there is some money changing hands, and studying.  They are really samples to advertise my new business, with all your help plus Rory's academy has catapulted me to see new horizons.  I am currently fitting a terrible case of scoliosis, I'll post some images shortly.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: TTailor on August 15, 2017, 12:53:24 AM
I just fit two cases of scoliosis this season, both quite different.
One of them I blogged about. I am interested in your approach, so I do hope you find time to post.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: jruley on August 15, 2017, 05:24:45 AM
I feel like I monopolized the site last year with all my fitting threads.   I have several shirts and trousers made using the patterns members so generously helped with, so I definitely got more than I gave.

I've been quite busy this year with non-sewing projects (such as learning more than I ever wanted to know about windowsill replacement) so have nothing new on the board that I need help with at the moment.

The next logical step for me would be to fit a suit jacket pattern, but in retirement I have little occasion to wear one.  With the Photobucket policy change on webhosting images I also have no way to include photographs.

I hope the professionals will continue to post techniques and directions.  This site is a great resource for everyone.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: pfaff260 on August 15, 2017, 06:14:11 AM
I agree with Posaune, it was so silent everywhere. C & T was so lively in the earlier years. I miss that. I was also very happy with this forum and it's easy access.

Dear Posaune,
Does this help? It's from Hans Andermahr's Schnitt-Technik. His sleevedrafts produce beautifull sleeves. Although there is some ease in the cap.
(https://s13.postimg.org/d0ijops9f/Schermafbeelding_2017-08-14_om_22.06.47.png) (https://postimg.org/image/d0ijops9f/)
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: tom bennett on August 15, 2017, 05:07:48 PM
Will do Terri.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: hutch-- on August 15, 2017, 06:05:20 PM
Just on the issue of posting images, in recent PC software I have seen a bit of freeware for PCs where you can make an animated set of slides from photos, often with captions and produce an MP4 video from it. It means you would have to have a Youtube account but from what I have seen of it, its not that difficult to use. I had to look around for a technique to pan and zoom high resolution photos for some of the video I have been playing with. The link below is into the complicated end of animated stills as it uses NASA images from Mars but with normal photos is not all that complicated.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aC3AzuWfIBc

LATER : The quirks of software fascinate me, I just posted a simple link for anyone who was interested in animating photos which would normally be a simple link and instead the Youtube video window shows up.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: Futura on August 16, 2017, 08:41:25 AM
I've been lost in translation work on my Mueller books, along with planning for a move overseas on top of never ending house renovations. I'm also researching buying a used industrial machine capable of zigzag, which is a little difficult as we haven't moved yet and space is limited.

I do check both forums every day or two, though I don't often post for fear of making a fool out of myself! ;)

(I admit, I've also indulged in expanding my collection of 1970's electronic Singer machines... I just received a really obscure model from Australia yesterday.)

I would definitely like to see the sleeve draft!
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: Schneiderfrei on August 16, 2017, 10:06:52 AM
What was your model from Australia??

I also fear making a fool out of myself and certainly have done so.  I for one won't fret to see others do the same :P

G
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: Greger on August 16, 2017, 04:43:42 PM
Don't we all. Sometimes I wonder why I write anything.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: Futura on August 16, 2017, 05:25:34 PM
What was your model from Australia??

It's a Singer "Futura Electronic 2002" from 1979... looks sort of like a hybrid between a 1975 Athena 2000A and a 1976 Futura 1000G, the world's first electronic sewing machines. I lose count of how many I have! They are fun to play with and do make a decent stitch. :)

Maybe I will chime in more often - foolishness and all. ;)
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: posaune on August 16, 2017, 07:08:21 PM
Thanks for the draft from Andermahr, Pfaff260. You seem to have quite a collection of old drafts even my beloved Lenassi, happy you. Peterle,  sorry, I have not much experience with body builders. In the ladies department I have often difficulties fitting ladies with breast implantates - it may be the aequivalent. 
But back to the sleeve.
I'll start another thread for the sleeve draft.
lg
posaune
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: Schneiderfrei on August 16, 2017, 10:38:13 PM
Thanks futura, What is it about the early singer electrics that you like?

I myself, like the singer mechanicals from the 50's, tank like and all metal, perfectly regular stitching.

G
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: Greger on August 17, 2017, 03:51:44 AM
Mom bought a electronic one and one or two computers home sewing machines. They were dreadfully awful. It seems like they had to stop and think sometimes several times per stitch. The mechanical machines are are great. Industrials are so much faster. Get up to speed on them and your not wasting time.

Of course, handsewing is a whole nother ball park.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: Futura on August 22, 2017, 06:49:16 PM
I originally bought my first Futura 1000G as I loved the design. I never really liked the curved shapes on some older sewing machines, which seems silly considering how sturdy they are...

That being said, I'm really quite pleased with how it handles. It stitches well and doesn't produce wobbly straight stitches like some domestic zigzag machines do, and it has a nice feel to it with good speed control. I've actually had an easier time with it than some older all-metal machines.

One expensive computerized machine I tried would decide to continuously sew everything in reverse (the controls must have been damaged). Not a fun experience! I find modern domestic sewing machines dreadfully unappealing - I have no interest in doing any quilting. I suppose the 1970's was the last decade when home dressmaking was still widespread, and the machines were still (for the most part) intended for apparel.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: hutch-- on August 23, 2017, 05:03:27 PM
There are a few true mechanical machines that can be bought, Singer does one and so do Bernina, both reasonably expensive but most of the rest are very ho hum in performance terms. Made of plastic, poor head access, slow stitch rate and after a few years, no spares. Like many of the folks here my sewing machines were made in the late 60s, early 70s and are all metal. I own a few modern overlockers and the Bernina one is the best of the lot but I think if you are serious these days and want new equipment, you bypass the domestic modern stuff and go straight to proper industrials.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: Schneiderfrei on August 24, 2017, 11:01:24 AM
I would love a Juki/Brother industrial.  But, my wife would object.  "Where to put it???"
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: Greger on August 25, 2017, 04:17:07 AM
Build a shop building.
Title: Re: why is the page so silent?
Post by: Schneiderfrei on August 25, 2017, 09:45:09 AM
That's not such a fanciful idea greger. Too much else on my list though :D