Author Topic: Advice needed  (Read 798 times)

AZTailor

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Advice needed
« on: August 17, 2016, 06:35:11 PM »
Dear members and tailors,

How do you correct the collapse above the buttoning point as attached. Darts or... Appreciate the advice, thank you



posaune

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #1 on: August 17, 2016, 08:32:48 PM »
I only sew for ladies. So take it with a grain of salt. And we have only the front view.
Does it collapse or does it tear? Open the button and see what the front parts do - how it hangs: straight down, swing inwards, swing outwards. For me it looks like tearing - means somewhere in the shoulder neck part length is missing and maybe at the side seam some width. I would like to rotate the front pattern a bit about bustpoint.
The armhole looks a bit deep.  The lower CF stands away from body - but not sure - no side view.
lg posaune
I would like to read what the gents say
lg
posaune

peterle

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #2 on: August 17, 2016, 09:38:58 PM »
A forward hip can cause a collapsing chest.

Look here in post #69 and #71 :

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=189.60

lepus

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2016, 11:52:41 PM »
Dear members and tailors,

How do you correct the collapse above the buttoning point as attached. Darts or...

I wonder if there is too much chest shaping for the figure; measurements? Is there excessive space between chest and jacket when you move the collapsed area indicated within the circle outwards? Is there too much length on the crease line of the lapels with top "button" closed just above this "button"? If so, a simple alteration is to take a wedge out and straighten the fronts slightly. However, as posaune said, this is complete guesswork until more viewing angles are available, and even then it's difficult enough.

Overall shape and proportions seem fine for the figure. Sleeve heads need better crown support, they should curve smoothly.

spookietoo

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Re: Advice needed
« Reply #4 on: August 18, 2016, 04:07:45 AM »
I think Peterle may be on the right track.  Side photos would be nice.