Author Topic: Making a Collar By Hand  (Read 2136 times)

TTailor

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Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Reply #15 on: July 21, 2017, 09:00:32 PM »
If you always leave extra canvas to allow for the difference that the bias creates in an unseamed collar, you can remark the length and shape that occurs.
I don't really like the bulk either, but the collar comes out more evenly if there is a seam.

Schneiderfrei

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Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Reply #16 on: July 22, 2017, 12:37:02 PM »
Here is what the Schneiderhandwerk says about the undercollar:

"The collar also gets an inlay.  We have used hair canvas for the material.  It [hair] appears softer and more pliable than the hard collar lining, that seemed so natural to use not long ago.  The experts are, however, not yet in complete agreement.  However, in either case, it is important that the interlining material on the [Crochetnaht] i.e. the seam where the collar and lapel [Fasson] join is straight grained, and in fact, must be warp-yarn [kettfadengerade] straight."

Sorry if there are any glaring errors.  It is only talking about the felt and inlay.  I haven't finished beyond this. :)

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Greger

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Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Reply #17 on: July 23, 2017, 04:15:51 AM »
The center seam can have a shaped cut. Another reason is one side may need to be longer than the other across the back. Otherwise, one piece is alright.

It seems horse hair maybe to bulky. If the hairs poke out, and some, slide out, then the purpose is defeated. Is that the best/correct springingness for a collar? Whatever materials, that are used, it does its job for several decades.

Schneiderfrei

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Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Reply #18 on: July 23, 2017, 12:09:39 PM »
Well Schneiderhandwerk was from the 1950's.  Hair canvas probably looked pretty good.

Greger

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Re: Making a Collar By Hand
« Reply #19 on: July 24, 2017, 12:17:06 PM »
If you find hair canvas that does the job you want what more can you ask for? Good is good.