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Advanced Apprentices / Re: Corpulent Rundscau patterns for body coats
« Last post by peterle on Today at 01:22:14 AM »
Obviously you own the XVII th edition of the Zuschnitt. The How tos of the preperation are on page 280.
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Advanced Apprentices / Re: Corpulent Rundscau patterns for body coats
« Last post by LeiaOrgana2187 on December 12, 2017, 10:39:22 PM »
Any helpful photos to guide? Would be appreciated
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Advanced Apprentices / Re: Corpulent Rundscau patterns for body coats
« Last post by peterle on December 12, 2017, 10:28:06 PM »
In my Mueller "Zuschnitt fuer die Herrenschneiderei XVII" there are several corpulent drafts ( Cutaway, Gehrock, Frack, Soutanelle, and the Reverende you posted).

The preperation is the same for all of them. The pattern gets slashed along the chestline and pivoted open for 1,5cm at the front edge. Then you slash the front dart up to the chestline and pivot the dart a bit more open (from 1,5cm to 2cm usually). In patterns wich allow a neckhole dart you also slash a line from the neckhole to the chest line (about to 2cm from e towards CF) , and pivot the front edge part. This will open the neckhole dart (about 1,5cm) and reclose the front edge line more or less.  The actual dart has to be short enough to be hidden under the lapel.
 Thus the added width and length for the chest is only at the center of the chest line, keeping the front edge short. But keep in mind that this preperations are only for patterns that are yet drafted with a corpulent draft. They are not intended to change a normal draft to  corpulent draft. (like on your second pic)
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Advanced Apprentices / Re: Corpulent Rundscau patterns for body coats
« Last post by LeiaOrgana2187 on December 12, 2017, 10:14:41 PM »
Just like what I said earlier, there are Rundschau patterns for body coats (especially body coats).... and there is one example for a corpulent figure I have....



This one is for a clerical variant of a frock coat. But what I was asking was a tutroial diagram on how to treat the patter before cutting....

Something like the white shapes on black backgrounds here:







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Advanced Apprentices / Re: Corpulent Rundscau patterns for body coats
« Last post by tom bennett on December 12, 2017, 08:14:36 PM »
Body Coats are those that are fitted to the body such as frock coats, tails, waistcoats.  They fit close to the body hence the name.  I don't know any German drafts for this but there are plenty of English systems for such coats, maybe look at the Modern Tailor and Outfitter or search for body coat drafts.  They are generally "tweaked" like most coat drafts as the fitting points are generally the same.
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Advanced Apprentices / Re: Corpulent Rundscau patterns for body coats
« Last post by posaune on December 12, 2017, 05:57:38 PM »
What is a Body coat?
Sure there are corpulent construction explained
Posaune
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Advanced Apprentices / Corpulent Rundscau patterns for body coats
« Last post by LeiaOrgana2187 on December 12, 2017, 10:22:12 AM »
Just wanna ask again out of curiosity... wonder if there is a corpulent Rundschau pattern for body coats? And the methodology of how to tweak them? Saw a Reverende pattern for corpulent figure but no explanation of hot to treat the pattern before drafting to the cloth.
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Scissors And Shears / Re: did you see Wilkinson
« Last post by hutch-- on December 09, 2017, 10:11:36 PM »
I think that guy was less than honest, the next party that picked up the project was indeed a brave soul and I hope he covered his costs after paying the factory for their work. In modern shears I really like the Wiss 20W and 22W. I own a couple of pairs of the modern Wiss 22W (the 12 inch version) and they are nice grunty precise shears, they just aren't as "sexy" as the big antique ones but they really work well.

I keep a few pairs of the older American made 20W (10 inch) shears and I use one very old pair as my trimmers (after fixing them) and they are both precise and capable of grunting through close to anything. The current big Wilkinson shears are beautifully made and lifetime investments but are expensive.
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Scissors And Shears / Re: did you see Wilkinson
« Last post by posaune on December 08, 2017, 03:22:17 AM »
Yes the shears are looking very nice and I got the MUST HAVE feeling.
I was astonished about the way the firm went to get the money to produce it - this kickstarter thing. Is that now common to do that?
The shears are nice to see but
lg
posaune
Some time ago a gent did the same, collected the money and had the shears produced in Italy -  if I remember right. But there was some fishy going on. I backed out - but I did it because of the size of the shear.
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Scissors And Shears / Re: did you see Wilkinson
« Last post by hutch-- on December 08, 2017, 12:00:06 AM »
I am not sure of what your question is directed at but I had a look at the web page and their new EXO range looks like a very good design.
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