Recent Posts

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Professional Tailors / Re: cutting fabric weft and warft
« Last post by posaune on Today at 06:55:22 PM »
Thank you for your suggestions. Yep. In the bias it is no problem. So maybe the split yoke is the solution with a dense poplin weave.
lg
posaune
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Professional Tailors / Re: cutting fabric weft and warft
« Last post by peterle on Today at 06:36:42 PM »
I also stretch it when ironing if possible. But usually it is not a problem in my shirts.

You could evetually cut a spilt yoke and let the stripe run along the front yoke seam as it is often seen in american shirts. The back yoke seam will be bias then and thus more stretchable.
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Costumers Forum / Re: Books, the unusual ones
« Last post by theresa in tucson on Today at 09:36:35 AM »
Wow, that is some book.  I do not remember the book but do remember seeing a photograph of a anorak or similar make of seal's intestine.  It may have been a Taunton book or one of D.P. Coffin's.  Just for fun, it would be nice to have the book you referenced in one's library.
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Professional Tailors / Re: cutting fabric weft and warft
« Last post by theresa in tucson on Today at 09:32:39 AM »
Just observing how some men's shirt are put together - it depends.  I have seen some very nice plaid yokes cut on the same grain as the shirt body, have seen them cut on the bias (which in cowboy country is the norm), and if there is a dominant stripe, cut conventionally opposite the shirt body.  For a one directional patterned fabric  it would look odd not to cut the grains the same but for a plain, I would think it would not matter.  I have read of a custom shirt maker who prewashes his fabric six times to get all the possible shrinkage out of the fabric before making it up to prevent just the shrinkage you are referring to.
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Professional Tailors / Re: cutting fabric weft and warft
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on Today at 08:33:54 AM »
I generally stretch it or accept the puckering. I think it would look too unusual to cut the yoke in the same direction as the bodice.

Some cloth seems far more susceptible than others.  None of my panama weave - chambray, oxford cloth does this, some poplins do even if they are quite expensive.

G
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Professional Tailors / cutting fabric weft and warft
« Last post by posaune on Today at 06:31:31 AM »
Now a question what I ask myself when I iron the shirts of my husband.
I made some shirts out of fabric with stripes. These are the warftes threads. Now I do the yoke cutting so that the yoke stripes goes horizontal and the fabric below vertical.
If I wash the shirt several times I think the warft shrinks more than the weft (or other way round) and I have to stretch the seam to get at back a clean seam. Sometimes I can't stretch the yoke seam enough. In the front it does not matter because the seam is here real short.
How do you deal with this?
lg
posaune
I wash my fabric before cutting it
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General Discussion / Re: why is the page so silent?
« Last post by Greger on Today at 03:51:44 AM »
Mom bought a electronic one and one or two computers home sewing machines. They were dreadfully awful. It seems like they had to stop and think sometimes several times per stitch. The mechanical machines are are great. Industrials are so much faster. Get up to speed on them and your not wasting time.

Of course, handsewing is a whole nother ball park.
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Costumers Forum / Re: Books, the unusual ones
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on August 16, 2017, 10:39:17 PM »
Wow! The original Dry Suit.
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General Discussion / Re: why is the page so silent?
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on August 16, 2017, 10:38:13 PM »
Thanks futura, What is it about the early singer electrics that you like?

I myself, like the singer mechanicals from the 50's, tank like and all metal, perfectly regular stitching.

G
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Costumers Forum / Re: Books, the unusual ones
« Last post by TTailor on August 16, 2017, 09:05:01 PM »



Here is the combination suit with mid chest opening.
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