Author Topic: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.  (Read 238 times)

TTailor

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #15 on: October 12, 2017, 11:26:10 AM »
Where to start?

I drafted a half scale thinking model.


I set up some basic lines of my draft. I wont go through it in fine, fine detail, otherwise I wont have time to get the work done!
The back:
I used the proportional waist length and a scye depth for a 112cm/45" chest as a starting point.

I have three numbers for his cross back width. One from the measurement sheet, one proportional based on chest size and one from the jacket he wore. I decided to use the biggest number here as too big is much easier to deal with than too small.

Since his back waist length is 6.5 cm longer than proportional, I decided to apply 3.5 cm of that above the scye line and 3 cm below the proportional waist length line. It just seemed right to me at the time. At the armhole though, I added only 2.5 cm . I did this by cutting the paper and inserting a strip then pivoting from the CB to take out 1cm at the armhole.
I calculated his back neck width, 1/10 h chest plus 3 gives 10cm, and I compared it with another formula of 1/5 neck minus .5 which gave me 10.1. So 10cm is good.
Draw in the shoulder line and include a standard 2cm dart.
suppression at CB is a marginal 1.5cm.
tentative back dart placement and amount of 3cm.
Draw in a tentative side seam line and a marginal amount of suppression there.
Fronts:
I then marked the armhole width and located the CF line.
This is a doublet, and usually I would only allow 2.5cm ease on the half for something close fitting, but I increased this because again- a bit more ease is easier to take in, than not being able to button up the fronts.
I can see that his belly is full so at the waist line I allowed 2cm beyond the CF for corpulency.
Next is locating the neck point, both its height above the top line and its distance from the cf line.
       The further away from the CF construction line, the more crooked the neck point. This helps to create a closer fitting armhole, but also can put an excess of fabric in the neckline, or excess length in the CF line. I used a couple of methods and try them out to see what looks good to me. Not exactly scientific I know.

Once I get the neck point, I can draw in the CF line and front neckline, a tentative front shoulder line, a tentative armhole shape too. I like to cut out the back pattern and lay the shoulder lines together, looking at the slope and the run of the armhole over the shoulders.
I mark a tentative dart placement and amount in the front, check the waist size, draw in the bottom style line roughly.

At this point I then made a full size pattern and cut out a test in some drill. I stitched some of it together, but left a lot just pinned

The next step is to go and pad up a stand.

I went back later and changed my mind about how that excess back length would be split, adding a cm more above the scye and 1 cm below the scye.
Gives me an armhole of 70 cm though. That seems very large. Hmmm.
« Last Edit: October 14, 2017, 11:03:55 AM by TTailor »

TTailor

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #16 on: October 18, 2017, 12:50:51 AM »
basic pattern



padded a stand


quick mockup on the stand



After looking at this for a while I corrected a few things.
I changed how I divided up the excess back length to 4.5 above the scye line and 2cm below the proportional waist length line. I corrected the run of the front armhole.
i darted in the CF line slightly below the belly.
I gave him a little more length at the neck point, letting the fronts drop a tidge more. I had a nape to floor measurement and a base of throat to floor measurement, so I double checked that.
I think I will increase the back shoulder dart slightly.



TTailor

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #17 on: October 18, 2017, 12:59:52 AM »
One of the garments is a doublet in faux leather with angled corded seaming, and slashes in the panels.
I used some tailors tape to play with placement of those lines.

I will move the side seam line forward

the yoke area extends into the top of the sleeve, so sleeve manipulation is in my future.

The other garment has to be quilted. It consists of a jerkin (sleeveless) and a set of quilted sleeves that are attached to a separate under bodice. At times he wears just the jerkin, other times the jerkin with under bodice and sleeves and other times the black faux leather doublet over the sleeveless quilted jerkin.
So the quilted look has to be developed first.

Schneiderfrei

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #18 on: October 18, 2017, 10:26:28 AM »
Fantastic! Thanks for letting us look in.

TTailor

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #19 on: October 18, 2017, 12:24:28 PM »
Waiting for fabric to arrive.
I will have to do a quilting sample.
Preliminary quilting/thinking lines. The darts in the base fabric will be as usual, but the fashion fabric layer will have the dart transferred to align with one of the lines of quilting.



I need to know the button size, for the overlap, and I have to figure out the best way to construct and finish the garment. There will be lacing on the sides, and I am going to have a separate lacing panel sewn on and that will be a good spot for leaving seam allowance for alterations (bigger or smaller)
The neckline and armholes, I am planning on binding with bias.

TTailor

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #20 on: October 18, 2017, 12:38:11 PM »
All the quilting lines need to be first drawn out on paper, then drawn onto the inside of the base fabric.
After I do a quilting sample, the next step will be to baste the batting in place, -over a ham- then lay the fashion fabric on top and figure out the best way to baste it in place or quilting.


pfaff260

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Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Reply #21 on: October 18, 2017, 04:11:38 PM »
Thank you. Love to see the end result.