Author Topic: Looking for a short overcoat  (Read 1753 times)

posaune

  • Venerable Member
  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 246
  • Human Being
Looking for a short overcoat
« on: December 22, 2016, 03:12:49 AM »
Has anyone an idea for a short overcoat (110 cm). I have a black Loden here - very nice. It will be for a corpulent gent, 70 years. I have already drafted both: a Paletot and a slipon - but I think the Paletot  is too elegant. He is only used to this (blown up) sportsjacket types in which he looks like the Michelin-Guy
Any other ideas?
lg
posaune

hutch--

  • Administrator
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 529
  • Bespoke Snippers
Re: Looking for a short overcoat
« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2016, 05:02:56 AM »
You are very brave taking on a task like this. I guess it will have some to do with what he wears normally, casual or more formal as to the pattern design you use. If the customer is reasonably tall then there is some chance of blending his girth to his height but if he is short then added length is probably the only way to avoid the Michelin Man look.
The magnificent tools of the professional tailor
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/  ;) ;D

posaune

  • Venerable Member
  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 246
  • Human Being
Re: Looking for a short overcoat
« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2016, 08:32:37 AM »
Oh yes, Hutch. You do not know how brave I'm! Because he has a balance of about 6 cm from back to front I'll do DARTS! Yep. Darts!
lg posaune
the 110 cm length is okay a longer overcoat is not so good for car riding - if I don't do it boxy. A "slim" design will give a good silhouette like this:
http://www.hugoboss.com/de/herren-maentel/?gclid=CPeThISdhtECFUwo0woddvoB2w
But it could be a little more sporty.

hutch--

  • Administrator
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 529
  • Bespoke Snippers
Re: Looking for a short overcoat
« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2016, 03:37:04 PM »
I own a perfect old Burberry trench coat which is a long coat but it has a centre split at the back that allows you to sit with no real problems. The suggestion was a compromise between girth and length to get it to look OK on a portly gentleman.
The magnificent tools of the professional tailor
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/  ;) ;D

peterle

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 254
  • Experienced Professional
Re: Looking for a short overcoat
« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2016, 10:12:35 PM »
A Paletot is in deed very elegant for somebody who is used to bomber Jackets.

Have you thought of a pea coat? (something like this: https://www.mmuga.de/epages/15235268.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/15235268/Products/59-Caban

 It would be more casual, is not too long but long enough to cover a lounge coat, but can also be worn with a sweater. The big collar, two vertical "Mufftaschen"and a narrow double row of buttons could eventually stretch the figure and give it a bit of structure. Black loden would be wonderful when heavy enough.


peterle

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 254
  • Experienced Professional
Re: Looking for a short overcoat
« Reply #5 on: December 22, 2016, 10:15:52 PM »
By the Way: 6cm ? Aua!

Will You do vertical darts in the back?

posaune

  • Venerable Member
  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 246
  • Human Being
Re: Looking for a short overcoat
« Reply #6 on: December 22, 2016, 11:15:51 PM »
Oh Peterle,
yes this looks more sporty. I'll try first a basic draft. The collar will ask much attention because I have to add 3 cm in the back and take away 3 cm in front. The bust is a bit caved in. The pockets : I'll will use them to conceal the belly dart.

You are right, Hutch. And if it was a mobile man I would make it longer to get a good proportion. But he is not very mobile so just getting into a long coat is difficult for him. I have to look what to do with the buttons and how deep I cut the armholes. He suffers from Parkinson.

lg
posaune

See pic how far I'm now, Peterle. I thought maybe it will go without. If the center back seam is not too rounded otherwise I'll do shoulder darts

peterle

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 254
  • Experienced Professional
Re: Looking for a short overcoat
« Reply #7 on: December 23, 2016, 12:23:55 AM »
Oh I see, a real challenge.

I´m sure you considered it already but maybe the coat is easier to put on for your customer when it is not too near to the body at the back armhole, means the back armhole is a bit looser? Then you wouldn´t have to make the back seam that round also.

hutch--

  • Administrator
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 529
  • Bespoke Snippers
Re: Looking for a short overcoat
« Reply #8 on: December 23, 2016, 01:04:27 AM »
Sounds like the garment needs to be designed to be simple to put on and no complicated button holes at the front. Big buttons and easy access depending on how far the Parkinson's has advanced. Probably a double breasted design would have a simpler front as far as buttoning up the garment.
The magnificent tools of the professional tailor
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/  ;) ;D

jeffrey

  • Regular Member
  • **
  • Posts: 31
  • Human Being
Re: Looking for a short overcoat
« Reply #9 on: December 23, 2016, 02:45:47 AM »
Not a pattern draft  but these may be helpful for your client. I have used magnetic snaps for clients with MS and Parkinson in the past with great success.
http://makesomething.dritz.com/sewing-product-info/sewing-tutorial-apply-magnetic-snaps/#.WFvxhrGZPEY

posaune

  • Venerable Member
  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 246
  • Human Being
Re: Looking for a short overcoat
« Reply #10 on: December 23, 2016, 04:59:53 AM »
Those snaps looks great - they have to be considered! Thank you Jeffrey. I have to look around for them.
I'm not sure if I better do a raglan, Peterle.  The armholes will be cut some cm deeper and wider and the mobility is good. But they are not fashion in the moment and they are kind of boxy.
Yes, simple and not to heavy, Hutch.
lg
posaune

jeffrey

  • Regular Member
  • **
  • Posts: 31
  • Human Being
Re: Looking for a short overcoat
« Reply #11 on: December 23, 2016, 07:32:25 AM »
You could also consider a sleeve gusset for added mobility. Even a small eye shaped gusset in the armhole will add a nice amount of movement/ease.

posaune

  • Venerable Member
  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 246
  • Human Being
Re: Looking for a short overcoat
« Reply #12 on: January 01, 2017, 03:22:02 AM »
here is the developed pattern so far. The bodice is fitted I must do the sleeves and collar now.

The pic is the back view before fitting - looks like a coronation coat.

lg posaune

hutch--

  • Administrator
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 529
  • Bespoke Snippers
Re: Looking for a short overcoat
« Reply #13 on: January 01, 2017, 09:10:34 AM »
What a truly fascinating fabric, I normally associate coats being made from heavy tweeds and often in dark colours.
The magnificent tools of the professional tailor
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/  ;) ;D

posaune

  • Venerable Member
  • Full Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 246
  • Human Being
Re: Looking for a short overcoat
« Reply #14 on: January 01, 2017, 09:55:49 PM »
hehe Hutch,
this is my muslin. Made from old drapes. I like funny fabrics for doing muslins especially in gent's garments - all this drab colors! I made recently a vest for testing the pattern out of a very flowerly patterned fabric (origin: 60ter years). It was a real success - customer wanted it finished. so 2 vests.
lg
posaune