Author Topic: Rundschau Bauchweste 1954 - English Translation  (Read 1772 times)

Schneiderfrei

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Rundschau Bauchweste 1954 - English Translation
« on: May 02, 2016, 01:32:11 AM »
Peterle and I have been busy again – I apologise for the poor image quality, if anyone has a better version I would be happy to put them in, I may re-draw them.

I have left the abbreviations untranslated so you can find them on the images (Abbildungen).


The Belly Waistcoat

Main body measurements:        ½                     Ό                     1/8                   1/16

Kg  Body height  172 cm              86                    43                    21.5                 10.8
Ow Chest             108 cm             54                    27                    13.5                  —
Uw Waist             112 cm             56                    28                       —                    —

The Proportional Measurements (Calculation of the Waistcoat)

Rh Back height            = 1/8 Ow      +1/16 Kg       + 0.5 + 1.5 cm = 26.3 cm
Tl  Waist length             = Ό Kg (without seam allowance)            + 1.5 cm        = 44.5 cm
Ad armhole diameter = 1/8 Ow                              + 1 cm                         = 14.5 cm
Hs neck mirror             = 1/10 halb Ow                       + 3 cm                         = 8.3 cm
Rb back width             = til 100 Ow:                  2/10 Ow + 1 minus 1 cm     =
                                  = over 100 Ow:             1/10 Ow + 11 minus 1 cm     = 20.8 cm
B Chest width             = Ό Ow minus 4 cm                                                            = 23 cm
U Waist width              = Ό Uw minus 1 cm                                                 = 27 cm


Attention: The normal waist measure is about 8 – 10 cm smaller than the chest; therefore in this case the given corpulence must be dealt with by using a belly dart [Bauchsisson].

Front and rear parts in this draft are separated by the addition of the armhole diameter: thereby avoiding the crossing over of the side seams in the drafts of corpulent figures. In this draft the front and rear part are separated by an additional amount in the armhole section. That΄s how to avoid any overlapping of the sides seam lines in a corpulent draft.

The waistcoat fits tighter to the body, therefore the back width, armhole diameter, chest and waist measurements are reduced: the remaining measurements are given the same calculations as for the jacket.

As the waistcoat back is made of lining, that has less give for movement; to prevent the waistcoat neckline sticking out while wearing, the back height and waist length are each increased by 1.5 cm.

The Draft:

Figures 503 and 504





W/H1/T       Right Angle Foundation Line
W—h          Neck Scale = 8.4 cm
h—H           extension measurement up =  2.5 cm
W—H          neck hole  marked out
W—m          = ½  Back height
W—Rh        Back height + 1,5 cm ease= 26.3 cm
W—T           waist length + 1,5 cm ease= 44,5 cm
Rh/T            Square horizontal
T—T1          Normal measurement inwards = 2.5 cm
T1/W            Middle back seam as shown in the diagram
R—Rb          Back width  = 20.8 cm
Rb — At       Armhole diameter — 14,5 cm + 2 cm Separation amount = 16,5 cm
At — B         Chest width = 23 cm
Rb —            Square up to form b
At —             Square up and down, to form points Ad and H
H — U           Waist width = 27 cm
B/U                Centre Front normal
U —               Square down
U — L            front length about 16 cm
H1 —             In the case the waistcoat length was measured on the customer, apply it in the following manner: put the tape against H1and let stick out 8,4cm (back neck line) upwards. Measure in a direct diagonal line towards L the customers measurement +1cm to determine L. (This is because, the length measurement is taken from the CB point of the customer and therefore includes the back neck)
e —                = half of At —B
f —                 = half of H—U
f — e              Form guideline for the neck-point, above H1
b — a1           back armhole = 2 cm
H — a1           draw guideline
a1 — a2         Shoulder width = ca. 3 cm
Ad — A1        front part armhole = 3 cm
H1 — A1        draw the guide line
H1 — A1        Width from back minus 1 cm
At —              Deepen the armhole ca. 2 cm at the horizontal line
A1/a2             armhole as per diagram
A1 — a1        side-seam  =   4 cm
H — b            side-seam   =   3,5 cm
a1 b               Mark out side-seam
b — L1          side length = 5.5 cm
L1 — L          lower edge of pattern, Note Draw it slightly rounded regarding the belly figure.

The Centre Front:

L — U            Extend the centre front up. Form B1
B1 — B          b is at the half point
b — U            new centre front vertically down, form L4

The Belly Dart:

k—                 From the pocket line starting point square down vertically
k1—               dart size = the amount L—L4, about 2 cm; cut out from the paper pattern.
H1—h1          stand collar width = 1.5 cm
B/U/L4           edge allowance (Button/hole stand) = 2 cm
H1 —             guideline to the neckline depth
h1/L               Neckline, front edge and waistcoat tip like template
a1—a2           cut out 2cm, equivalent to the added separation amount
U—U1              = ½ Waist circumference + 6 cm for large belly: this additional amount includes: 1 cm cut out to the back dart, 1.5 cm for the side seams and 3,5 cm for ease
U1—T1          The remaining amount between U1 and T1 is removed in the side seam b-c
a2—c             Draw the side seam
c—L2             length of front part + 1 cm
T1—L3           length from side-seam + 1,5 cm allowance
L3—L2           lower back edge
Back darts about the middle of T1 – c; cut out 1 cm (with finished seams) The Drawing Line is the sewing line.  Pocket, buttonholes and neckline according to Diagram.

The Seams:

The armhole and sides are 7.5 mm each; the centre back seam, neck hole, neck line, front and lower edges and darts are net.

The Ready to Cut Front Part:

The belly dart can be employed vertically – as per the draft, down from the front end of the pocket closure.  It has, without doubt, a better effect and produces sufficient abdominal fullness.   Although there exists the danger of the formation of a bulge at the front edge of the pocket line.

The belly dart can also be installed invisibly in the pocket seam (like in a Jacket); the paper pattern is cut from behind along the course of the bottom pocket seam and from the front pocket closure run down by the amount of the dart (L—L4);  Slash the pattern along the elongated pocket line from the sideseam and fold away/pinch the drafted vertical dart.  That’s how the dart opening is transferred towards the back.  Add seam allowance to both edges of the slash.  The cut out is removed from the pocket.

A better, tighter fit of the armhole is achieved by a short dart in the upper pocket.  The dart is to be sewn in seam width (0,75cm)





Abb. 505:  The belly waistcoat front part is prepared for a horizontal belly dart
« Last Edit: May 02, 2016, 10:05:54 AM by Schneiderfrei »