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Costumers Forum / Re: The challenge- drafting for people you have not measured.
« Last post by TTailor on November 13, 2017, 11:01:53 PM »
Another delay, to the original project. It is unusual to have a long deadline in my business, and the costume is not needed until March 2018.
An opportunity came up, so I am away working in Montreal for a month.
I believe the show will be set in 1660, so breeches and doublets look to be in my future.
Cheers!
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General Discussion / Re: I saw a huge iron today
« Last post by AllenG on November 08, 2017, 03:10:20 AM »
That's a nice find!
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Fitting of trouser project
« Last post by Will_F on November 06, 2017, 05:13:09 AM »
Thank you all for the comments and recomendations. I'm traveling now but when back I'll  do some alterations. Quite exciting.
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Vauclair system: Coat draft, 1980
« Last post by Gramountoto on November 06, 2017, 03:52:52 AM »
Thanks Greger. Wise words.
These 2 ways of measuring armscye depth are both described in this book. As you say it's a starting point.
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Vauclair system: Coat draft, 1980
« Last post by Greger on November 05, 2017, 06:14:12 AM »
Some tailors and organizations put out some information, but not all of it. This way other people miss up and head back to their tailors.
Another reason why no additions to the top is customers can choose their own scye deep. And it varies from cloth to cloth, anyway.
How were you taught to measure from nape to scye depth? Where you taught to measure a little above the nape, or add to it?
The pattern is basic and open for needed adjustments, which includes fit and style.
Some tailors see a coat on someone, in their mind, and no pattern is going to git in the way of it. Of course, it has to please the customer.
My lesson is the pattern can be a starting point, but never dependent upon it.
And, the pattern is a specific art. And that one may not fit the customer's personality. So, adjustments are made.
I find so many people only know store bought thinking and nothing about what tailors should know and do. So many people who start tailoring later can be vary limited in their thinking. Don't take small children into clothing stores. Instead, teach them how to hand sew. Teach them fitting. How to adjust patterns into other patterns (one or two lessons). A few other basics. And let their imagination take over.
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Fitting of trouser project
« Last post by peterle on November 04, 2017, 08:32:50 PM »
I also think you have a forward hip posture.

My first alteration would be to remove one of the back darts and ease in /make a dart with the same amount at the trouser fronts. This should give a bit more room for the fronts and probably reduces the whiskers and the gaping pockets reduces the "waves" in the upper back.

For the legs I recommend to move the knee notches of the back up for about 1,5cm. When sewing the legs let the (new)knee nothces meet and ease the back trousers in in calf hight, and ease the fronts in between the pocket ends and a point about 10 cm above the knee line. This will give some length where itīs needed, i.e. over the front tighs and the back calf.

A wool cashmere fabric will be easy to ease in and iron shape.
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Fitting of trouser project
« Last post by posaune on November 04, 2017, 05:16:02 PM »
  I think you have a Balance problem. The Front needs more length (and width ) because  of you forward hip. The rise could be a Little more so the back pants can move up and you can alter the CB  seam angle and the back trouser can go up.
Posaune
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Fitting of trouser project
« Last post by Will_F on November 04, 2017, 08:48:44 AM »
I found this old thread about fitting trousers. http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=403
Could the pulling in the front be cause of a oddly shaped back center seam? I had to use some of the inlays in the back and I think I might have disturbed the "run" of the seam.
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Vauclair system: Coat draft, 1980
« Last post by Gramountoto on November 04, 2017, 06:49:52 AM »
One thing that puzzles me a bit is that the back armscye depth on the draft is the same as measured (with a tape from back neck, over the shoulder and under armpit or just with a straight strip of cardboard) without any ease.
Wouldn't you guys add some ease there just to avoid the armpit pushing the side panel down?
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Fitting of trouser project
« Last post by Will_F on November 04, 2017, 03:57:02 AM »
And the inlays would be added as in the pictures below.

The picture is from Men's Customer Tailored Pants by Stanley Hostek.
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