Author Topic: concave vs convex, italian vs. british!? mens suit construction  (Read 536 times)

axel

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I just read a short interview with Henry Stewart a Saville Row trained tailor who does bespoke in the US, and he says this:-----
---- His next principle, oddly enough, sounds like one for a dressmaker, and it involves making curves on a man`s body. It is one of Stewart`s greatest secrets.
Stewart:``The English work their clothes on curves or convex. It`s all curves. I build curves. The Americans work concave. They like to scoop everything out like the Italians.``-----
    I have a decent knowledge of womens pattern making and tailoring but my mens is only half way decent could someone elucidate/elaborate on what exactly he means here about concave and convex from a pattern and construction perspective and also if he is referencing something more than how he constructs the waistline like shoulder/sleeve patterns and positioning/balancing etc. I would be very thankful for anyones thoughts and also perhaps on how this relates to recent editions of rundschau/HAKA systems. ok that was probably alot and since its my first post im not sure i followed the proper form but thanks again for any thoughts

TTailor

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Re: concave vs convex, italian vs. british!? mens suit construction
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2018, 10:39:45 PM »
Can you post a link to the article? I'd like to read it.

axel

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Re: concave vs convex, italian vs. british!? mens suit construction
« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2018, 03:12:12 AM »
here is the article its a bit of pop piece but that part made me curious about how he works when he builds shape through pattern and construction and what he means by concave vs convex!?

http://articles.sun-sentinel.com/1990-08-19/features/9002090728_1_suits-curves-dressing

posaune

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Re: concave vs convex, italian vs. british!? mens suit construction
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2018, 06:18:08 AM »
Oh well. Some of it is fairy tale stuff. But there is at the same time some truth in it - like old men talking about the war.
I do not think that american tailors do a concave breast.  This will mean a flat chest and no curves at all in a coat.
lg
posaune


Greger

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Re: concave vs convex, italian vs. british!? mens suit construction
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2018, 11:49:30 AM »
That is an old article.  Think I've read it before. Think he is talking about making swelled chest.  Not many completely hand sew garment's, anymore. Most of those guys must be dead now, or close to it. A few still think it is not tailor made unless it is completely hand sewn (no machines). It really doesn't take much longer hand sewing. Garment's have a different feel.

spookietoo

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Re: concave vs convex, italian vs. british!? mens suit construction
« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2018, 03:26:46 PM »
Yes, that article had a bit of age on it. (Paul Newman has been gone for years!)

In 1990, the actors mentioned were wearing coats with considerable drape - just coming out of the 80's. Applying the concave/convex thinking to that time frame may have some merit - but mostly it just sounded like hooey - talking to make noise.

Some good basic statements made, but nothing truly original. There's much better information posted here to be studied rather than wasting time considering concave vs convex.

I really wouldn't concern myself with it.

axel

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Re: concave vs convex, italian vs. british!? mens suit construction
« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2018, 01:36:05 AM »
hahaha spookietoo that sounds very true been immersing myself the past few days, the convex concave thing just intrigued me since he seemed to emphasize this. thankyou everyone who answered