Recent Posts

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21
Terri, this are the new balance measurements:

VL (Frontlength) = Rl  (waistlength) +3-4.5 cm (Bustcirc 80 - 92)
VL                        = Rl + 4.5 - 5 cm + 1/10 Uebermass  (Bustcirc 92.5 - 116)
VL                        = Rl +5.5 + 1/10 Ubermaß (Bustcirc 116.5 - 128)
from 128.5 it is 6 cm + Uebermass
(Uebermass you need when a Bust is over 100.  Uebermass = Bu measured - 100.
 Example: Uebermass = 116 Bu (measured) - 100 = 16;
 You add 16 /10 = 1.6 cm )

You are supposed to calculate your front length with this formular and compare it to the measured Vl.  If you have more than 1 cm difference you have a problem.
lg
posaune                                                   
22
Terri, If you right click on the photobucket image and select open in new page/tab (depending on your browser) it will take you to Sator's photobucket. If you then click on his name at the top left this will take you into his photo bucket and from there you can look at or download images, discovered this hack this morning when looking for the Rundschau coat ironwork schematic.
Thank you, I will try this. I was trying to access it from an ipad and saving the image was not working!
23
It is an old draft! Nowaday the balance calculation of the front length = Length of waist + 2  is not longer valid. They have altered this very drastical. It depends with the bust circ.
lg
posaune
Noted!
I will apply my own check/ balance measures to it.
24
Thank you, everyone!
25
Advanced Apprentices / Re: in-seam button hole
« Last post by Nicole Nygaard on February 12, 2018, 03:43:15 AM »
 :) Thank you so much Peterle. I understood this actually! Going to try this on my next trouser project. :)
26
Advanced Apprentices / Re: in-seam button hole
« Last post by peterle on February 10, 2018, 09:48:04 PM »
Yes, I like the inner button and buttonhole to be done in the seam line, because I think the button can be sewn on quite well there.

Roughly you have to extend the underlap of the fly and the waistband a little to make this buttonhole. When You sew on the waistband, stop sewing at the first mark of the buttonhole, do some back stitches, continue the seam a little bit beyond the second mark of the buttonhole, do a few backstitches and continue to the end of the waistband. Then you can open the stitches that close the buttonhole. Iron the seam allowances apart in this area ( clip the Sa of the front for this purpose).

How the inner side is worked depends on, how you usually work this area. I like to carry the underlap inner lining all the way up to the edge of the waistband. So I cut the lining open at the buttonhole and blindstitch the edges. Secure the endpoints of the buttonhole with bar tacks. ( I loooove handsewn bartacks...)


27
The Coatmakers Forum / Re: Food for thought and comment
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on February 10, 2018, 06:47:49 PM »
Wasn't the Stresemann suit a bit like this, controversial in it's day, now a valid choice?  And thinking back to Beau Brummell, a non-matching trouser? Scandalous!
28
Advanced Apprentices / Re: in-seam button hole
« Last post by Nicole Nygaard on February 10, 2018, 03:33:54 AM »
Yes, exactly. I made a pair of trousers for myself and the "inner button" keeps poping out, so isn't a solution to attach button and button hole to a seam?

Thank you for moving my question to the right forum.
29
It is an old draft! Nowaday the balance calculation of the front length = Length of waist + 2  is not longer valid. They have altered this very drastical. It depends with the bust circ.
lg
posaune
30
Brilliant Jeffery.
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