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21
Patternmaking Reference / Re: Rundschau Trousers 1959 - English (Kelner)
« Last post by peterle on January 19, 2019, 09:54:55 PM »
One flaw I came across: The last sentence should say:
" the SEAT seam and darts represent...".
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Last post by posaune on January 19, 2019, 09:45:19 PM »

Do you know that this means "a little shortness at the back crotch point"?

I saw that you have a second thread and here is what you was refering too. The translation of Kellner(?)  I have not read it through all those stuff!!!. But I'm sure he means that when you circle the outseam length to the back center you should do 1 cm less. This will bring the back pants up for a straighter fall. Yours are falling down in back - too much length at the center back crotch. But too much for doing this. (I thought it meant the inseam crotch point and the fit there - as was discussed earlier)
Your difference between out and inseam is 34 cm that is very much. So your dart lengths must maybe larger
For sewing a men's fly look in the net - there is much around.
lg
posaune
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Rundschau Cutting System Clarification Please
« Last post by peterle on January 19, 2019, 09:38:46 PM »
There are some important things to know:

1. When you add inlays for fitting you do this when cutting the muslin, not in the pattern. You just ads them outside of the marked pattern lines. At the top of the seat seam you should add an inlay of about 4cm (in the case a straighter seat is necessary).
2.Please notice the last sentence in the text. It means that You will sew 0,75cm inwards from the drafted lines( wich is usually half a sewing machine foot. so when you run the line along the right edge of the foot with the needle centered, the seam will be 0,75cm inwards) . Only the darts and the seat seam are sewing lines.

There are two darts in the back because there are 4cm leftover to be removed. This is too much for a single dart ,so it´s divided to two darts (2,5cm, 1,5cm). the main dart is approximately in the middle of the back waistline. The darts are strictly perpendicular to the waistline.

Flaws in your draft:
The lower part of your legs is not right. a, b , and d are the final points of the seamlines. When you do the straight provisorial lines you aim them 1cm inwards from a,b,c and d. When you draw the final seam lines you can follow the straight line first and then curve the line gently towards the hem so it ends perpendicular to the hemline in the points a,b,c and d.

The upper part of your front outseam is not right. Point G should be the most protruding point of the hip curve. The line should not protrude the vertical constructionline above point G.
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Rundschau Cutting System Clarification Please
« Last post by posaune on January 19, 2019, 09:17:14 PM »
I attach a draft. I have done the trouser after your measurements. (These are without seam allowances) I have copied the fly pattern. For the right side you must add an extra allowance at the fly seam -  you need 1 cm at least here for hiding the zip.  And I have given you the fly concept for a muslin. How to sew look up the side I gave you.
The darts are done where needed. In my pic it is front center waist because it will be a pleat. If no pleat I would place it about 6-8 cm from side seam. Back it is first dart center of back waist the the 2. center of remaining space. But this is only standard.
lg
posaune
sorry forgot, getting too old for this


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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Rundschau Cutting System Clarification Please
« Last post by Adriel on January 19, 2019, 05:08:19 PM »
I feel dumb getting hung up, the answer comes as you draft. There are a few issues with the translation, once or twice had to come up with best guess. I can share these if desired. Over all, appreciative to Henry for sharing it, far better then the previous.

Further, I took pictures of where I had difficulty if any errors are apparent can discuss. If looks good to go, then will get cracking on the sloper.

I did add a total of 1,5cm to the side seam, 1cm in front and 0,5cm in the back, considering suggested to let out 2cm. Figured if not needed, noted where I had done this so could be reversed.



My question is this: The instructions did not include the location of the darts, how are these determined?

Again, many thanks and appreciation!
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Introduction from New Members / Re: Please introduce yourself here.
« Last post by Henry Hall on January 19, 2019, 10:57:30 AM »
Hello Hendrick. Are you Dutch by any chance?
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Introduction from New Members / Re: Please introduce yourself here.
« Last post by Hendrick on January 19, 2019, 08:37:36 AM »
Hi.
Hendrick here. I am partner in a design studio that was founded over twenty years ago. We offer forecasting and design services mainly for wholesellers and commercial brands. Over the years we have seen tremendous change in businesses with them sourcing from ever lower wage countries.
I was ”born in the industry”; my dad was an accomplished master tailor who became partner in a garment factory. Clearly, I had a great view of the near total demise of the garment industrie in Europe. Before my dat would let me go to fashion school, he decided I “must learn something about garment making”. Hence, I was sent to technical colege and got an associates in garment manufacturing. Mind you; the sewing I did there is best described as “very experimental dressmaking”. The pattern making training, however, was excellent; we got the full rundschau method rubbed in. Otter than some modifications I didn’t do any  sewing for years. After all  these years in fast fashion, however, my fingers  started itching, I bought avfew gorgeous old sewing machines an slowly I am taking off! For now, all this is “therapeutical”. I am happy to to be here, taking a bow to all you lovers of the arts, not in the least place to the highly inspiring Rory Duffy...

Thanks for your contributions, greets, Hendrick
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Rundschau Cutting System Clarification Please
« Last post by Adriel on January 19, 2019, 07:44:59 AM »
M is the centre point between G-G1.

Thank you.

So I asked too many questions? What then is the limit? Is it possible to break down into diagrams and still get them answered? Otherwise do not see using this system possible. :(
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M is the centre point between G-G1.
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Rundschau Cutting System Clarification Please
« Last post by Adriel on January 19, 2019, 07:29:05 AM »
How about checking my math and answering a few questions before drafting using the Rundschau Cutting System?



I decided to switch to using metric, far easier and already seeing improvement. Also, see improvement in this system over Rhinehart as the distance between the second and third lines on the former is locked at 7.62cm where the latter is based on a formula (in my case comes out to 7.65cm). Further, if understand correctly, no defining the knee width.


Diagram 531
How is G to M determined?


Diagram 533
Though I am not sure about the inner seam. Is G1 connected to b, determining S2 and K2? Or in other words, how is the distance from S1 and S2 determined?
How is point 2 determined?


Diagram 533
Displace mean widen, as in the hem and knee?
Why is the hem displaced twice, a/b 2.5cm and then c/d 1cm?
For my particular case, should the square be placed at S or S5?


Diagram 535
B6 to B7, how do you choose between 2.5 and 3cm?
Is B7 to B4 the same as the width of the dart(s)?
Why is there two darts shown?
How are the darts placed?


Finally, how does this statement "a little shortness at the back crotch point" affect the draft? Please give specific points, I am a visual person, appreciated.

Thank you in advance!  :)
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