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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Rundschau Cutting System Clarification Please
« Last post by TTailor on January 21, 2019, 12:40:18 AM »
When you use a new (to you) drafting system, It is always best to use the measurments given in the sample and forllow the draft using those numbers.
Do it once do it twice or even more because you need to understand how the draft works and whether you are following/understanding it properly. It helps to focus your questions.

Then, when drafting to individual measurements, look at how they compare to the standard ones in the draft. Then you have to determine how to approach the draft for a different body shape.

I'm sure I recall reading this advice somewhere on your blog (?). Though it might have been elsewhere. I wanted to ask then why this would be necessary. Is this just because the given measurements are usually 'standard' measurements for a normal figure?

I suggest drafting to the given numbers just for the understanding of it all.
The draft gives clues to what the draft considers standard.
I have seen many people (beginners) who have non standard measurements try to apply them to a draft that they have found only to get confused when their pattern doesnt follow the “plan”
If one starts with a comparison of these numbers one can identify in advance the changes that will appear when drafting.
Example: the draft shows a waist of 32 and a hip 38”  as “standard” proportion but the taken measurements Are 32” waist and 42” hip or perhaps 39” waist and 38” hip. Following the draft as written will give very different placement of seam lines from what you see with the standard numbers.
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Hi!

“My” mechanic, with 40 plus years experince also in industrial sewing, will only use Zippo lighter fluďd for cleaning... Beware nylon parts; they don’t appreciate mineral liquids. But the same goes for mineral oio’s of course... this man services my vintage machines and to great results.

Greets, Hendrick
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Rundschau Cutting System Clarification Please
« Last post by Adriel on January 20, 2019, 11:40:15 AM »
Redrafted four more times, first using 1,5cm above S, then had the idea to mess with the angle and tried 3cm, 6cm, and 7,5cm. I then got about 2cm, about 3cm, and 1cm in the same order. I find it interesting going more vertical gives more excess, until reaches too close to vertical, then quickly declines.



Find this also interesting as was given advice that with a flatter bum a more vertical fits better?

Or is the 5cm added to the seat to be taken up by the darts?

Thank you all in advance!  :)
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When you use a new (to you) drafting system, It is always best to use the measurments given in the sample and forllow the draft using those numbers.
Do it once do it twice or even more because you need to understand how the draft works and whether you are following/understanding it properly. It helps to focus your questions.

Then, when drafting to individual measurements, look at how they compare to the standard ones in the draft. Then you have to determine how to approach the draft for a different body shape.

I'm sure I recall reading this advice somewhere on your blog (?). Though it might have been elsewhere. I wanted to ask then why this would be necessary. Is this just because the given measurements are usually 'standard' measurements for a normal figure?
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Introduction from New Members / Re: Please introduce yourself here.
« Last post by Henry Hall on January 20, 2019, 10:40:01 AM »
I'm not, but I live in NL and I just guessed because you wrote 'industrie'. Other than that I'd never have guessed! Jolly good English there sir.
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Rundschau Cutting System Clarification Please
« Last post by Adriel on January 20, 2019, 07:45:53 AM »
I attach a draft. I have done the trouser after your measurements. (These are without seam allowances) I have copied the fly pattern. For the right side you must add an extra allowance at the fly seam -  you need 1 cm at least here for hiding the zip.  And I have given you the fly concept for a muslin. How to sew look up the side I gave you.
The darts are done where needed. In my pic it is front center waist because it will be a pleat. If no pleat I would place it about 6-8 cm from side seam. Back it is first dart center of back waist the the 2. center of remaining space. But this is only standard.
lg
posaune
sorry forgot, getting too old for this



Regarding making mistakes, I do too, sometimes wonder how the really dumb ones can even happen.

Fantastic! Appreciate you taking the time!  :)  Is there a larger picture, as when larger then preview I can't read... Great help seeing how the seams should be shaped and for the fly covers.

The instructions include the seam allowance, so why remove it?

Not sure how I would add a pleat, wasn't planning, though of course open to learning.  :P  ;)

There are some important things to know:

I could take offense for the suggestion I do not know how to operate a sewing machine and sew, though think had the best intentions and like me, presentation isn't a strong suit.  :P

1. When you add inlays for fitting you do this when cutting the muslin, not in the pattern. You just ads them outside of the marked pattern lines. At the top of the seat seam you should add an inlay of about 4cm (in the case a straighter seat is necessary).

Greaat! Asked WA the inlay amount and here is the answer.  :)

So no inlay on the side seams? Okay.

2.Please notice the last sentence in the text. It means that You will sew 0,75cm inwards from the drafted lines( wich is usually half a sewing machine foot. so when you run the line along the right edge of the foot with the needle centered, the seam will be 0,75cm inwards) . Only the darts and the seat seam are sewing lines.

Okay.

There are two darts in the back because there are 4cm leftover to be removed. This is too much for a single dart ,so it´s divided to two darts (2,5cm, 1,5cm). the main dart is approximately in the middle of the back waistline. The darts are strictly perpendicular to the waistline.

There is only about 1,5cm of leftover.


This is where the errors in the translation exist. On diagram 534, the angle of G2 to G3 is not defined (nor the distance between B1 to B3 though do not think need). Then on diagram 535, B6 to B7, doesn't mention 1/2cm on the diagram and which side the breath of the waist, assumed on the inside based on the diagram. So should the shortfall be 4cm?

Flaws in your draft:
The lower part of your legs is not right. a, b , and d are the final points of the seamlines. When you do the straight provisorial lines you aim them 1cm inwards from a,b,c and d. When you draw the final seam lines you can follow the straight line first and then curve the line gently towards the hem so it ends perpendicular to the hemline in the points a,b,c and d.

I am sorry it was not clear that I followed the instructions, including aiming the line. I am having trouble with the back pattern getting the curves happy.




The upper part of your front outseam is not right. Point G should be the most protruding point of the hip curve. The line should not protrude the vertical constructionline above point G.

I thought it was? S2/S3 to G1 and S4 to G4 are guidelines, should they be a different colour?



By the way, tried posting this morning and found out the servers had crashed. Glad able to save my post, one forum crashed so hard lost all the previous posts and all content. Bums me as was hoping to be already sewing.
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Introduction from New Members / Re: Please introduce yourself here.
« Last post by Hendrick on January 20, 2019, 07:45:53 AM »
Hi Henry,

Yes, I am dutch. Although I must have spent about 99 percent of the last 25 years abroad...
Are you dutch as well?

Regards, Hendrick
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Last post by Adriel on January 20, 2019, 04:49:30 AM »

Do you know that this means "a little shortness at the back crotch point"?

I saw that you have a second thread and here is what you was refering too. The translation of Kellner(?)  I have not read it through all those stuff!!!. But I'm sure he means that when you circle the outseam length to the back center you should do 1 cm less. This will bring the back pants up for a straighter fall. Yours are falling down in back - too much length at the center back crotch. But too much for doing this. (I thought it meant the inseam crotch point and the fit there - as was discussed earlier)
Your difference between out and inseam is 34 cm that is very much. So your dart lengths must maybe larger
For sewing a men's fly look in the net - there is much around.
lg
posaune

No second thread, a new thread for a new draft. Figured needed to step back further, meaning instead of working on a trial trouser, to first resolve the pattern, then once the pattern is ready, then have the sloper reviewed once done.

Who is Kellner?

Circle the outseam?

These are high rise trousers. The inspiration has the dart through the pockets, though mine will not have any pockets (don't use them so why have them and one pair of OTR doesn't). How does one then know where to end the dart?
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Rundschau Cutting System Clarification Please
« Last post by TTailor on January 20, 2019, 02:28:35 AM »
When you use a new (to you) drafting system, It is always best to use the measurments given in the sample and forllow the draft using those numbers.
Do it once do it twice or even more because you need to understand how the draft works and whether you are following/understanding it properly. It helps to focus your questions.

Then, when drafting to individual measurements, look at how they compare to the standard ones in the draft. Then you have to determine how to approach the draft for a different body shape.
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Rundschau Trousers 1959 - English (Kelner)
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on January 20, 2019, 12:43:42 AM »
That's a good hint theresa in tucson.
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