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Books and other quality reference material / Re: Style book 1921
« Last post by pfaff260 on Today at 04:56:06 PM »
Loved it. Thank you.
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Books and other quality reference material / Re: Style book 1921
« Last post by TTailor on January 16, 2018, 10:54:27 PM »
Thanks!
I have one very much like this. These classic illustrations are beautiful.
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Books and other quality reference material / Re: Style book 1921
« Last post by peterle on January 16, 2018, 08:56:08 PM »
Very nice, Thank You!
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Books and other quality reference material / Style book 1921
« Last post by Greger on January 16, 2018, 04:45:18 PM »
The pictures explain it.










From 1921
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To right my wrong, here is the jacket.
Posaune, you are wright, this is from the 30's





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Best study is to make a few different examples using different stand widths, curve diameters and widths. Making them in paper is enough to get an impression. You will have to do it anyway when making a specific garment.
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Hmm... any further examples (especially military blouses) for further comparison and study?
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Good Books To Own / Re: Rundschau Coats
« Last post by Greger on January 13, 2018, 08:32:29 AM »
It looks like a nice book. I'd like a whole library of books of many types of patterns. So many possibilities of clothes to wear.
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Good Books To Own / Re: Rundschau Coats
« Last post by posaune on January 13, 2018, 01:22:54 AM »
Oh well.
I made a basic pattern with the variations for corpulent gents. I choose the wide coat.
I made alterations for a bend body in a) like Mueller suggests (but not in this extreme) (right)
b) from a dutch book:  Maatwerk pasvorm correcties (left)
Now I'lL cut a sample. First the dutch back because I'm curios if it works (blue). The mueller alterations I have done last year for an overcoat - it worked (red). After this I'll decide about the pockets, collars, sleeves a.s.o.
It is not easy, he can't stand for measurements and only short for fitting, it is a bit like your challenge, Terri.
lg
posaune





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Pfaff's pages are a lot later than what Leia showed. the draft looks even modern
I have a book from Rudolf Mauerer from 1931  here. he drafts the collar like this (a simple angled draft).

hope it helps
lg posaune
The neck depends on the Oberweite (bustwidth) and the kurze Taille (Back length)
V-U = 1/8 of Bust, V-W =1/16 of Bust
c-G = Hinterteilsbreite par example for bust width 100 cm = 7 cm , G-H = 2cm. Where C is located from A is complicated.
It is a compilcated system but I think it works well especially with corpulent drafts

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