Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Good Books To Own => Topic started by: posaune on January 12, 2018, 02:19:59 AM

Title: Rundschau Coats
Post by: posaune on January 12, 2018, 02:19:59 AM
Under the christmastree this year I found the Rundschaubook "Coats".

https://www.muellersohn.com/haka-schnittkonstruktionen-jacken
It was on my wishlist bwecause I will sew my husband some "outdoor"coat and I don't know how to size pockets, collars a.s.o, that it will look good with gent's wear.  I must alter the drafts very much because of the posture of my husband - fighting on one front is enough.

It has about  basic patterns:
paletot ease 10.5
Coat wide with Inset sleeve or raglan sleeve ease 14 cm
Coat Kimono  ease 20 cm
parka ease 11.5 cm
coat fitted  ease 6.7 cm
jeans coat  ease 5.5 cm
shirt coat ease 7.5 cm
outdoor waist coat wide
outdoor waist coat normal
and an overall
There are 40 models and  and 11  models for job garments mostly for hotel personal.
Nice variations of Hoods, pockets and back styles.
All in all a rehash from the journals as always. (But as I do not own them a good catch for me)
But I would like to have them better edited as always.

There are no corpulent drafts, no alterations and the measures are sparsley explained. So not for beginners. But it gives me a lot of design ideas. And the styles are very wearable.
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Rundschau Coats
Post by: TTailor on January 12, 2018, 10:17:10 AM
That looks interesting!
Do you kniw what style he wants!
Post pictures of your process if you are able.
T
Title: Re: Rundschau Coats
Post by: Schneiderfrei on January 12, 2018, 10:48:22 AM
Der Weihnachtsmann ist, ja, immer aufmerksam. :)

I am surprised there are no corpulent drafts, is it supposed that one knows the correct adjustments?

I would love to see any progress.

My only projects since winter have been:

Translations of reference books (I really appreciate that you showed us Massschnitt und Passform - Hofenbitzer)

Developing a pattern for a new Tai Chi outfit. Which I decided was not quite tailoring. It has a drawstring waist.  Although I used some tailoring concepts to fancy it up a bit, like a grown on gusset.

G
Title: Re: Rundschau Coats
Post by: posaune on January 13, 2018, 01:22:54 AM
Oh well.
I made a basic pattern with the variations for corpulent gents. I choose the wide coat.
I made alterations for a bend body in a) like Mueller suggests (but not in this extreme) (right)
b) from a dutch book:  Maatwerk pasvorm correcties (left)
Now I'lL cut a sample. First the dutch back because I'm curios if it works (blue). The mueller alterations I have done last year for an overcoat - it worked (red). After this I'll decide about the pockets, collars, sleeves a.s.o.
It is not easy, he can't stand for measurements and only short for fitting, it is a bit like your challenge, Terri.
lg
posaune
(https://s18.postimg.org/3zwcdo8d1/coat1.png) (https://postimg.org/image/3zwcdo8d1/)

(https://s18.postimg.org/jldnxmzqt/coat2.png) (https://postimg.org/image/jldnxmzqt/)

(https://s18.postimg.org/o79s60g51/coat3.png) (https://postimg.org/image/o79s60g51/)
Title: Re: Rundschau Coats
Post by: Greger on January 13, 2018, 08:32:29 AM
It looks like a nice book. I'd like a whole library of books of many types of patterns. So many possibilities of clothes to wear.