Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Bespoke Professionals => Women's Cutter And Tailor => Topic started by: Schneiderfrei on September 05, 2017, 06:21:28 PM

Title: Taking Measurements - Auxiliary Measurements
Post by: Schneiderfrei on September 05, 2017, 06:21:28 PM
I hope this is of interest,  I haven't really looked at it closely yet.

(https://s20.postimg.cc/puv1ata55/Massnehmen_-_Hilfsmasse.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/puv1ata55/)
Title: Re: Taking Measurements - Auxiliary Measurements
Post by: peterle on September 05, 2017, 08:34:30 PM
These are very helpful measurments to get the balance right.

First you locate the 7th vertebra at center back.
From there you measure the calculated back neck measure along the neckhole to determin the "shoulder tip" and mark it (usually with a pin).
From there you can measure the back length and the front length from this point to the edge of the tapemeasure that is fixed (strictly horizontally!) at the waist. Measure over the most prominent shoulder blade and bosom point.
 At the front also note how deep the most prominent point of the bust is. This is the measurement for the bust dart.  (The text warns not to take the bust too deep, because the ladies prefer a higher bust tip:-).
For the armhole measurements take a piece of paper and fold it lengthwise. Put it under the arm and make the upper edge horizontal and bend it . Now take the measurements from the shoulder tip to the upper edge of this strip.


They´re taken for men also:


(https://s26.postimg.org/f8xl36uxh/balancemasse003.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/f8xl36uxh/)



(https://s26.postimg.org/vl7msx991/balancemasse001.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/vl7msx991/)



(https://s26.postimg.org/xw5ox3k0l/balancemasse002.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/xw5ox3k0l/)


You can also take the armhole measurements with the folded paper strip to get the armhole deepness like in the ladies example:


(https://s26.postimg.org/mavipdyj9/haltungs_nderung2.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/mavipdyj9/)
Title: Re: Taking Measurements - Auxiliary Measurements
Post by: Schneiderfrei on September 05, 2017, 09:26:33 PM
Thank you very much for these peterle.  I put up a different version of the bottom one recently too.  Posaune made some very useful comments about that image too.  It's the corpulent sakko post: http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=457

Actually here: http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=443.0
Title: Re: Taking Measurements - Auxiliary Measurements
Post by: posaune on September 05, 2017, 10:04:24 PM
Hallo Peterle,
maybe you have page 70 too. It would be very nice. The best description I ever read from Rundschau.
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Taking Measurements - Auxiliary Measurements
Post by: spookietoo on September 05, 2017, 10:39:20 PM
Thank you all for finding these photos and posting this information.  I have no one knowledgeable enough to help me with my own measurements and these photos and explanations will be enough to have my niece help.

I'm getting a bit worn down with my current "trial and error" approach.
Title: Re: Taking Measurements - Auxiliary Measurements
Post by: peterle on September 06, 2017, 12:35:52 AM
Hallo Peterle,
maybe you have page 70 too. It would be very nice. The best description I ever read from Rundschau.
lg
posaune

No sorry. This folder is not mine, it´s collected from the net.
But I can post the articel of the last pic in the drafting section:

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=465.0 (http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=465.0)
Title: Re: Taking Measurements - Auxiliary Measurements
Post by: Schneiderfrei on September 06, 2017, 01:33:11 AM
I love the expression "die nicht ganz ideale" That is surely a German understatement.
Title: Re: Taking Measurements - Auxiliary Measurements
Post by: Greger on September 06, 2017, 05:42:13 AM
Thank guys for posting these and the others. Can't read much of German, but the pictures tell somethings.
Title: Re: Taking Measurements - Auxiliary Measurements
Post by: spookietoo on September 06, 2017, 07:30:30 AM
Greger, if you haven't tried it yet, "google translate" does an amazing job. My mom's German, so it doesn't sound completely foreign to me, but if a phrase sounds a bit awkward from google, I put it into "bing translate"  for a different interpretation. I'm in awe of how easy it is.
Title: Re: Taking Measurements - Auxiliary Measurements
Post by: Greger on September 06, 2017, 05:27:50 PM
Did some years ago with Google. It must be better now.
Title: Re: Taking Measurements - Auxiliary Measurements
Post by: spookietoo on September 22, 2017, 03:31:59 PM
I agree - years ago google translate was rather worthless, for the most part. But the translators today are amazing to me.  Idioms of course can still be an issue, but then thankfully German isn't as laced with idioms as say Spanish - those change from country to country.