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Women's Cutter And Tailor / Re: new experiments with the neck pattern
« Last post by hutch-- on Today at 08:47:12 AM »
Every big busted lady I ever knew has problems like aching backs, still necks and heavy grooves in their shoulders from the bra straps.
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Women's Cutter And Tailor / Re: new experiments with the neck pattern
« Last post by posaune on Today at 05:40:10 AM »
you wrote it, Terry!! A big busted woman has mostly the same neck size as a smaller busted woman (just the bust bigger). We tried to derive it from the neck circ or the bust circ and we found a formula. But nevertheless, it will not work with me. M front neck hole has a smaller width then the back neck hole. Because- I think- my neck goes into front (case of  rounded back (but not only this). So the back muscles of my neck have much work to do to hold the head up (so the muscle and sinew may have dveloped more than average)  and my back neck is wider maybe as the back width ist wider than Bust width (respectivially). This would be an explaination for begone times.

Rundschau does a basic pattern. They use it every time.  They add ease in different places for either syles. I'm quite sure (not looking into a book) that the custom jacket, gets about 0.5 to 0.8 more "ease"at back neck hole. So the collar + roll width can settle most easily
lg
posaune
I have to sleep over this
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The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on August 15, 2018, 11:46:31 PM »
Maybe that is me?? Yes let me look back?

It could be true.

No wonder I have the draft for the Stutzer ready!

:D
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Women's Cutter And Tailor / Re: new experiments with the neck pattern
« Last post by TTailor on August 15, 2018, 11:30:42 PM »
I have tried a few different calculations myself.
I dont have my drafts here with me, but I tested a calculation for men's shirt neckline that seemed to give good results.
Maybe later today or tomorrow i will have my books home, and I will post them.

Is there a reason the front neckhole is smaller than the back?

Also,
I was trying out the ladies rundshau jacket draft from the old Cutter and
Tailor site and I was surprised that the back neck width calculation was so small. 1/10 half bust plus 2cm. Which for the draft of bust 100 is 7cm. That seemed ok for a bodice/ blouse but small for a jacket.
Most other drafting methods would make it 7.5 cm (or a bit more) for a bodice of that bust size.

Perhaps it is a better rule to use a calculation based on the neck rather than the bust since the two are not always in proportion to each other.
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The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Last post by hutch-- on August 15, 2018, 10:53:52 PM »
I am all in favour of linings being a subdued colour, I have seen to very bright ones over time but the bottom line is they are linings and not really designed to be seen. Somewhere I have a roll of miniature herringbone lining but you would have to be very careful where you used it to match the outer garment colour.
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Women's Cutter And Tailor / new experiments with the neck pattern
« Last post by posaune on August 15, 2018, 09:17:15 PM »
A friend of me and me, we are experimenting with pattern construction. The goal is that you can give in measurements into computer and will get a pattern (nothing new) . BUT in our version you can give in your personal body variations, lets say par. ex. rounded back and you will get a balanced pattern for your posture. We know we are limited here, but we do it mostly for the fun it is.
Now we came to problem: the neck. The fit of the  neck is in ladies cutting very important. The garment hangs from shoulder and neck. If the neck is not right nothing is right.
So we have gone through many calculations in the systems for neck. Not very successfull.
I have never ever thought about how different neck calculations can be. Now we have done a simple draft program to test your neck before you start drawing the pattern. we are testing all our friends and selftesting my own neck. I give you the pattern, black is the first try (neck circ 41,  a bit tight) and green (neck circ 42 and front diameter enlarged + 0.5 cm) is next. Note that the front neckhole is smaller than the back.
Anyone with experience concerning a neck draft out here?

lg
posaune
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The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Last post by posaune on August 15, 2018, 08:50:47 PM »
Oho, Schneiderfrei, I ever thought more a Dandy?
lg
posaune
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The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on August 14, 2018, 11:58:02 PM »
Yeah, I'm a Snob  :D
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The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Last post by Mr.gustavsson on August 14, 2018, 11:38:34 PM »
remark: I sew for ladies.
I learned that the back of a vest is done with lining (I'm quite old) and NO Poly, take acetat or viscose lining.  Because the lining does not stretch like wool, the back pattern of the vest has to care for this. If you are a snob you can take silk. But silk is not as robust as a lining fabric.
You can do the back from the same fabric as the front.
It is up to you. Par example: The lining is thinner and the coat sits better. THe coat fabric could be very expensive and depending on the pattern layout the back would gulp up much fabric.
Or you often take off your coat - so the back with the wool fabric would be nicer to look at. But it is warmer.  And maybe the coat must be cut a bit wider.

 ;) If you don't mind getting catched with a pink- yellow back- do that.
lg
posaune

If i ever decide to buy a suit with a pink or yellow vest back I will make sure to keep the jacket on.  ;D
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The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Vest/waistcoat lining and fabric questions
« Last post by posaune on August 14, 2018, 10:10:35 PM »
remark: I sew for ladies.
I learned that the back of a vest is done with lining (I'm quite old) and NO Poly, take acetat or viscose lining.  Because the lining does not stretch like wool, the back pattern of the vest has to care for this. If you are a snob you can take silk. But silk is not as robust as a lining fabric.
You can do the back from the same fabric as the front.
It is up to you. Par example: The lining is thinner and the coat sits better. THe coat fabric could be very expensive and depending on the pattern layout the back would gulp up much fabric.
Or you often take off your coat - so the back with the wool fabric would be nicer to look at. But it is warmer.  And maybe the coat must be cut a bit wider.

 ;) If you don't mind getting catched with a pink- yellow back- do that.
lg
posaune


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