Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Hi guys,

I thought I'd post a long overdue update. I had hoped I would be moving a long at a faster pace but as always life has a funny way of always derailing your plans.

I haven't been sitting completely idle though. I have made several attempts at improving my first pattern and I believe I finally have something worth showing. I haven't bothered adding waistband or fly. I'd like to get some of the more basic fitting problems solved first.

My own observations : The legs are currently too narrow over the thigh (the knee width is alright though). Movement feels restricted around the crotch. Creases just below the seat.

Planned alterations : Increase thigh width. Move the crotch line up a bit for better movement (increase length of the curve as well?).

To deal with the creases below the seat I'm planning on changing the pattern according to the last picture. It's for a "flat bum" or if you have your hips forward. I don't believe I qualify for a flat ass but my hips are prominently pushed forward, which is visible in the side photo.

Any comments are highly appreciated.

Cheers,

I would recommend this, with any of my translations:

Copy the text into a word document.  Anything that looks like a table probably was in my original. So you can put it back in a table.  Then download the images, copy the jpg files and paste them into the word document in the same place as the they are in the forum. You can alter the size so that the images are more clear.

then you have a nice little copy of the article for your own private study.  You could print it off, as I have done and have a great little reference.

Well , Spookietoo, it is so, that one figure problems seldom comes alone. They have shown here how to act for more then one problem, which is very common.
My example: I'm overweight, I have a spondylosis at the back, right hanging side lowered 2 cm (compared to the left), bend very forward.  #
You see there is much what I must consider to alter in my pattern.  Because of the bending forward my CF is realtively short compared to the CB. _ Means look to the balance_. Check if the circs are right. Proceed to the lengths. And very difficult is the fit for the space inside the pattern for the body. The key is:  slowly doing the alterations- one after the other and redo it if it was not the right way. And do it exact and with patience. And never do it alone!
My last grain of wisedom found out for me (we try to develop a more Custom tailored friendly system - that means for us sewing many muslins): my forward bent body (and neck )needs a deeper back neck as normal. In a normal draft I go up for back neck hole about 2 cm. But I need 3. Otherwise the balance is not good. (My shoulder angle is 24° - normally it is about 21°)
These translated articles from Schneiderfrei show how to use a draft for bodies whose are not  "proportional" - using a proportional draft. And you know when there is a difference between theoretical and measured you know you have a problem and in which direction you must look.
lg posaune

Thank you so much for all this work.
Looking forward to reading it through more closely.

Thanks Schneiderfrei. That is a lot of work.
Thanks Peterle.