Recent Posts

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1
Hi guys,

I thought I'd post a long overdue update. I had hoped I would be moving a long at a faster pace but as always life has a funny way of always derailing your plans.

I haven't been sitting completely idle though. I have made several attempts at improving my first pattern and I believe I finally have something worth showing. I haven't bothered adding waistband or fly. I'd like to get some of the more basic fitting problems solved first.

My own observations : The legs are currently too narrow over the thigh (the knee width is alright though). Movement feels restricted around the crotch. Creases just below the seat.

Planned alterations : Increase thigh width. Move the crotch line up a bit for better movement (increase length of the curve as well?).

To deal with the creases below the seat I'm planning on changing the pattern according to the last picture. It's for a "flat bum" or if you have your hips forward. I don't believe I qualify for a flat ass but my hips are prominently pushed forward, which is visible in the side photo.

Any comments are highly appreciated.

Cheers,








2
Patternmaking Reference / To all who have posted images on Postimage
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on October 13, 2018, 12:06:11 AM »
Hi all,

I have gone through all my posts in this section and refreshed the image URLs so that they work and are visible.

This applies only to the Postimage URLs.  About this time last year?? Postimage changed three tiny letters in its image URLs:

Like this:

After you click "Modify", the images are shown as a long string of characters. Within the string if you see the following -

"postimg.org" it needs to be changed to "postimg.cc"  This happens 2 times in every image URL, they both need to be done.


"[url  =https://postimg.org/sv2fr8Dj]  [/url]"

Must be changed to this:

[url  =https://postimg.cc/sv2fr8Dj]   [/url]

Its not too hard though it is Tedious.

G
3
I would recommend this, with any of my translations:

Copy the text into a word document.  Anything that looks like a table probably was in my original. So you can put it back in a table.  Then download the images, copy the jpg files and paste them into the word document in the same place as the they are in the forum. You can alter the size so that the images are more clear.

then you have a nice little copy of the article for your own private study.  You could print it off, as I have done and have a great little reference.
4
Ha ha, I have just realised that I misinterpreted one of peterle's comments.  He also said that you could still get the templates "til today". I thought he meant that "until recently" you could get them.  But your use of til is inclusive. He he.

G :)
5
Well , Spookietoo, it is so, that one figure problems seldom comes alone. They have shown here how to act for more then one problem, which is very common.
My example: I'm overweight, I have a spondylosis at the back, right hanging side lowered 2 cm (compared to the left), bend very forward.  #
You see there is much what I must consider to alter in my pattern.  Because of the bending forward my CF is realtively short compared to the CB. _ Means look to the balance_. Check if the circs are right. Proceed to the lengths. And very difficult is the fit for the space inside the pattern for the body. The key is:  slowly doing the alterations- one after the other and redo it if it was not the right way. And do it exact and with patience. And never do it alone!
My last grain of wisedom found out for me (we try to develop a more Custom tailored friendly system - that means for us sewing many muslins): my forward bent body (and neck )needs a deeper back neck as normal. In a normal draft I go up for back neck hole about 2 cm. But I need 3. Otherwise the balance is not good. (My shoulder angle is 24 - normally it is about 21)
These translated articles from Schneiderfrei show how to use a draft for bodies whose are not  "proportional" - using a proportional draft. And you know when there is a difference between theoretical and measured you know you have a problem and in which direction you must look.
lg posaune
6
Thank you Schneiderfrei for posting all of this information. I have reached the conclusion that my various fitting issues deviate so far from the "norm' that I need to study all of these issues to decide what needs to apply as accommodations for excessively full chests on women (along with the "plus size" descriptor). These problems do not seem to be very well defined in tailoring circles. This is most likely due to the overwhelming variety of issues that arise as a result of the various problems.

Basically, every little bit helps.

Thank you!
7
Thank you so much for all this work.
Looking forward to reading it through more closely.
8
What a lot of work! Thank you.
9
Thanks Schneiderfrei. That is a lot of work.
Thanks Peterle.
10
you can do this till today
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/allgemein/schnittmuster-slim-fit-sakkogrundschnitt/
(not every good tailor is (was) a good cutter)
and here something without to pay
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/shop/schlips-und-co/ :-)
lg
posaune
It is a long time ago I went to their page. You look at
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/allgemein
there are 23 pages full of interesting stuff if you like that

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