Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Thank you all! 

The fabric is 100% linen with a fairly fine weave.  I don't remember where I got it. 

For peterle:  Have patience, by the tenth jacket I'll have the sleeves at the proper length 

That looks great! Love the pleated pockets, too, that sends the vibe in a fun direction

Quote from: Hendrick on Today at 02:27:51 AMMachinists in the denim industry are called "blue fingers"...

In my case, blue fingers, blue ironing board, blue fingerprints on surfaces ... is there anything this ******* stuff doesn't stain?!!

Quote from: napwalk on Today at 02:04:01 AMI see - the draft I'm working off of gives 2" of ease across the crotch line to begin with, hopefully that's fine for the final fabric. I've made pants in the past that look great standing but restrict movement when sitting, so I've been wary of slimming down that area until now.

For your build, I wouldn't go any skinnier than 2" of ease across the whole seat (1" on the pattern), which will be quite fitted as things stand (though not in a bad way, hopefully).

You should have enough stretch when sitting due to the reasons we've discussed, but (if you don't do this already) it's always a good idea to reinforce the CB seam by hand after machining it, as recommended in some books of yore, because it will take a fair amount of stress.

A simple back stitch with a slightly sturdier thread produces a very strong seam. I like Gutermann 'sulky' thread, which I wax. It's a 2 ply embroidery thread, but quite strong. The 100% cotton comes in two weights: 30 (my preference) or 12 wt, which is good for heavier cloths (and sewing on buttons). Some like to use silk, because it tends to be stronger as a rule-of-thumb, but I've had no issues with cotton: at least not over the average lifespan of a pair of trousers (which is usually less than a jacket).

Quote from: napwalk on Today at 02:04:01 AM

Quote from: Gerry on June 29, 2025, 05:03:49 PMThat's a lot cleaner, well done.

Something I've been guilty of with my own trousers is adding a little too much ease across the seat. It's easy to forget that the cloth is towards the bias there and will have natural give. So long as things don't feel uncomfortably tight while standing, that give will allow sufficient stretch over the seat when sitting. Don't feel that you have to make things loose/baggy at the back for comfort.

I see - the draft I'm working off of gives 2" of ease across the crotch line to begin with, hopefully that's fine for the final fabric. I've made pants in the past that look great standing but restrict movement when sitting, so I've been wary of slimming down that area until now.

Quote from: Gerry on June 29, 2025, 05:42:46 PMPS With your jeans cut, you could treat them more like trousers, both in cut and construction (don't feel bound to convention). I've used lighter-weight denim (the sort of stuff that gets used for denim dresses) to make conventional trousers and reinforced seams are not required.

The cut/fit is usually far better than that of jeans, especially around the seat: A more-or-less straight CB line from fork-tip to waist (as is the norm with jeans) is never a good idea. Manufacturers do that because it's easier to sew a lapped seam that way, but it creates bagginess below the seat.

The only thing I don't like about denim is that it's not colourfast, so if making things more conventionally, pressing seams etc results in blue stains all over the ironing board cover, from the steam. In that respect, cotton suiting - especially chambray, if you can find it - is a far better option. Also, with the last batch of denim I used, it was out of true. I literally spent an entire morning stretching the stuff back into shape (which required a lot of effort!). Such is the nature of cheaper cloth.

Thanks for the pointer - I assumed the bagginess was a property of the denim fabric stretching over time, but it makes sense that it's a pattern issue given the whole CB is cut on the bias. Making bias tape has made me realize I've underestimated how much wovens can stretch.

Machinists in the denim industry are called "blue fingers"...

Cheers, Hendrick

Nice workmanship!

As to the corduroy; I think the volume of the fabric "eats" some space too, especially when curved in layers...

It looks a nice linnen quality!

Cheers, Hendrick

Quote from: Gerry on June 29, 2025, 05:03:49 PMThat's a lot cleaner, well done.

Something I've been guilty of with my own trousers is adding a little too much ease across the seat. It's easy to forget that the cloth is towards the bias there and will have natural give. So long as things don't feel uncomfortably tight while standing, that give will allow sufficient stretch over the seat when sitting. Don't feel that you have to make things loose/baggy at the back for comfort.

I see - the draft I'm working off of gives 2" of ease across the crotch line to begin with, hopefully that's fine for the final fabric. I've made pants in the past that look great standing but restrict movement when sitting, so I've been wary of slimming down that area until now.

Quote from: Gerry on June 29, 2025, 05:42:46 PMPS With your jeans cut, you could treat them more like trousers, both in cut and construction (don't feel bound to convention). I've used lighter-weight denim (the sort of stuff that gets used for denim dresses) to make conventional trousers and reinforced seams are not required.

The cut/fit is usually far better than that of jeans, especially around the seat: A more-or-less straight CB line from fork-tip to waist (as is the norm with jeans) is never a good idea. Manufacturers do that because it's easier to sew a lapped seam that way, but it creates bagginess below the seat.

The only thing I don't like about denim is that it's not colourfast, so if making things more conventionally, pressing seams etc results in blue stains all over the ironing board cover, from the steam. In that respect, cotton suiting - especially chambray, if you can find it - is a far better option. Also, with the last batch of denim I used, it was out of true. I literally spent an entire morning stretching the stuff back into shape (which required a lot of effort!). Such is the nature of cheaper cloth.

Thanks for the pointer - I assumed the bagginess was a property of the denim fabric stretching over time, but it makes sense that it's a pattern issue given the whole CB is cut on the bias. Making bias tape has made me realize I've underestimated how much wovens can stretch.

Well done!

And here unbuttoned:









For whatever reason this seems to fit better in the neck and shoulder area than the corduroy one.  Maybe it's the drapiness of the linen, or maybe the displaced seam works better for my shoulder blades.  Or maybe I just did a better job controlling the collar seam length, there was plenty of collar length this time 

Here's a look at the fit, buttoned:









I made some pattern changes (compared to the corduroy blazer here:
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,1605.15.html

- Body length is shortened
- Sleeves are shortened 3/8"
- Shoulder width is reduced 3/8" (per side)

And I used the alternative shoulder seam placement discussed here:
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,1631.0.html